190 



MAGNIFICENT VIEWS. 



The next morning was beautiful and clear, and after an early break- 

 fast, we were again in motion. The scenery was truly sublime, and 

 ascending one mountain after another, valley after valley appeared 

 in view ; hills which at first seemed mountains, seemed gradually 

 sinking before our feet, and the range of vision constantly extending, 

 we could not help making frequent halts to admire scenes which 

 cannot be surpassed, and which at every successive turn broke upon 

 our sight with redoubled magnificence and grandeur. We were 

 now in the region of pines and northern plants ; the old familiar 

 oak, the birch, and trees unknown to the lower countries, were 

 around us ; the heavy undergrowth had disappeared, and we could 

 almost imagine ourselves in our 4 dear native land.' Cultivation 

 does not extend up as high as we expected to see it ; we passed the 

 upper limit about 8,000 feet elevation. About 12 o'clock, and at an 

 elevation of rather more than 10,000 feet, the guides reported that 

 the mules could go no farther, and not knowing anything of our 

 route beyond, we were compelled to encamp for the night. A bro- 

 ther officer and myself, however, being on horse-back and feeling 

 comparatively fresh, determined to go forward and explore. We 

 concluded that it would not do to stop where we were, but the mules 

 with light loads could go still higher. Accordingly, next morning 

 we again started, four or five of us going in advance to select a 

 good place for encampment, and also to explore the best route for 

 the final ascent. We selected our camp on the verge of vegetation, 

 and went forward by routes far above the line of eternal snow. 

 Under shelter of a rock, and far above that line, some of the party 

 found a rude cross, decorated with paper ornaments and surrounded 

 by tallow candles. Its history we were unable to learn, but it gave 

 rise to many reflections. Who placed it there ? when was it erected ? 

 and what event did it record ? were questions asked, but not an- 

 swered. During the trip several parties of Indians passed us, who 

 make a regular business of bringing down snow on their backs to 

 the citizens of Orizaba. The cross was probably erected by some 

 of them. On our return, we found all our baggage brought up to 

 the new encampment, notwithstanding it had been pronounced im- 

 possible, and on comparing notes, selected the route which seemed 

 most practicable, and prepared for the ascent in the morning. The 

 night was clear and cold, the thermometer falling below the freezing 

 point; a heavy frost and frozen water reminding us forcibly of 

 c auld lang syne.' While sitting round our camp-fires this evening, 

 it was discovered that there were two flags in the party ; the sailors 

 not knowing that one had been brought along, had carried materials 



