DESCRIPTION OF THE CITY OF MEXICO CATHEDRAL. 245 



its walls before he becomes sufficiently disenthralled from the spells 

 of climate and national scenery, in order to do justice to the other 

 American capitals. Mexico, unquestionably, is the queen of Spanish 

 cities on this side of the Atlantic ; but, in external taste, in modern 

 elegance, and an agreeable combination of splendor and comfort, it 

 does not compare favorably with the chief towns in the United 

 States. 



Built in regular, square blocks, on a dead level, it wants the 

 picturesque breaks or abruptness, which are only found on inequali- 

 ties of surface. Its houses, erected around quadrangles — with a 

 court yard or patio in the centre of each, — are stern and massive 

 edifices ; but they have rather the air of castles designed for defence 

 or seclusion, than of habitations whose cheerful portals extend a 

 hearty welcome to every passer. They partake of the age in which 

 they were constructed, and of the traditionary architecture of South- 

 ern Europe. Yet, — in the pellucid air of these lofty regions, — 

 with its fancifully frescoed walls basking in the pure sunshine, and 

 relieved against the dark background of surrounding mountains ; — 

 its streets filled with a motly and picturesque crowd; — its towers 

 and domes breaking the regular evenness of the flat roofed dwell- 

 ings, — and its splendid groves in the alamedas and paseos, — 

 Mexico is, indeed, a capital worthy a great nation, as well as of the 

 enduring recollection and praise of every traveller who visits it. 



The plan of the city is as regular as that of a checquer board. 

 Its straight streets divide it from east to west and north to south ; 

 whilst, nearly in the centre, the great square or Plaza spreads out for 

 many an acre, surrounded by the chief edifices of the State, the 

 Corporation or the Church. 



On the northern portion of the plaza is erected — on the alleged 

 site of the great teocalli, or pyramid temple of the Aztecs, — the 

 cathedral, with its adjacent Sagrario. It is, externally and in- 

 ternally, an imposing building of the seventeenth and eighteenth 

 centuries ; for although its architecture is neither regular, classical, 

 nor conformable to the rules of any distinct order, yet its massive- 

 ness and elaborate detail, impart to it a certain degree of effective 

 grandeur. We have always found it. impossible to receive, or im- 

 part an idea of architectural beauty or magnificence by description 

 alone. The best writer can but. catalogue dimensions and details, 

 and his account is, therefore, always more of a builder's estimate or 

 bill, than a picture which impresses our minds with a vivid image 

 of the real object. We turn, therefore, gladly from the feeble pen 

 to the graphic pencil, and refer the curious reader to the accurate 



