For best results in your garden, you should have a well-built hot-bed; see directions below for making one 



3 



Maule's Back Yard Vegetable Garden Collection 



FOR ONLY $1.00, POSTPAID 



12 Packets, Each a Different Vegetable 



Packet BUSB BEAN, Stringless Green Pod 

 " BEET, Maule's Alpha 

 " CARROT, Maule's Danvers 

 " SWEET CORN, Maule's XX 

 " IETTUCE, Black Seeded Simpson 

 " ONION, Maule's Prizelaker 



Enough Seed to Plant a Plot 20x20 Feet 



1 Packet PARSLEY, Champion Moss Curled 



1 " PEAS, Little Marvel 



1 " RADISH, Scarlet Turnip White Tipped 



1 " SPINACH, Long Season 



1 " SQUASH, Earliest White Bush 



1 " SWISS CHARD, Lucullus 



Maule's Home Garden Vegetable Collection 



FOR ONLY $2.50, POSTPAID 



20 Varieties in the Following Quantities Enough Seed to Plant a Garden 50 x 50 Feet 



Pint BUSB BEAN, Stringless Green Pod 

 Packet LIMA BEAN, Fordhook Bush 

 " BEET, Maule's Blood Turnip 

 " BEET, Maule's Market Gardener's 

 " CARROT, Maule's Golden Rod 

 " SWEET CORN, Maule's Colossal 

 " SWEET CORN, Improved Giant 

 " CUCUMBER, Early White Spine 

 " LETTUCE, Tenderheart 



LETTUCE, Early Curled Simpson 



1 Packet ONION, Large Red Wethersiield 

 1 " PARSLEY, Double Curled 

 1 Pint PEAS, Thomas Laxton 

 1 Ounce RADISH, Maule's Earliest Scarlet 

 1 Packet RADISH, Maule's 1834 or AH Year Round 

 1 Ounce SPINACH, Giant FUlbasket 

 1 Packet SQUASH, Golden Summer Crookneck 

 1 " SWISS CHARD, LucuUus 

 1 " TURNIP, Red Top Strap Lea! 

 1 " RUTA BAGA, Maule's Heavy Cropping 



To assist those to raise a vegetable garden who are not familiar with the merits of the various sorts offered in 

 this seed book, we have made up the above two collections of the best and most desirable vegetables. 



With our 42 years experience, you get the benefit of a selection of varieties that will give the largest results with 

 but little labor and expense. Each collection contains a complete assortment for a garden of the given size. 



Collections above are made up ready for mailing, so we cannot make any changes in varieties whatever 



The Care of Your Soil — Several Practical Suggestions 



Choose, if possible, a previously cultivated piece of 

 ground that is level and free from stones. That will give 

 you the working basis for your garden. 



Next, you must prepare the soil itself. Heavy clay 

 should be mixed with sifted coal ashes or sand. Sandy 

 soil should be mixed with coarse manure. On all soils 

 a wheelbarrow load of manure to every two square yards 

 of ground will be enough. Well rotted stable manure is 

 undoubtedly the most efficient fertilizer for the garden. 

 Vegetables need Nitrogen, Potash and Phosphoric Acid, 

 and a ton of stable manure contains ten pounds of the 

 first two elements and five pounds of the last. 



When stable manure is not obtainable, the use of com- 

 mercial fertilizers, such as Maule's Panmure Plant Food 

 or Sheep Manure, may prove highly productive. 



If your garden is large it should be plowed; if small, it 



may be dug. The soil should be worked to a depth of 

 6 or 8 inches. An application of fertilizer or Sheep 

 Manure may be spread on this plowed or dug ground and 

 harrowed or raked in. The ground is now ready for 

 planting. Sow seeds as suggested by our planting table. 



Cultivation is necessary between the plants in a row as 

 well as between the rows themselves. If you will do 

 this thoroughly and often, your soil will get all the air 

 and moisture it needs. And you will keep down the 

 weeds at the same time. 



This is important. As long as your garden contains 

 weeds, the plants will not get the full benefit of the fer- 

 tility of the soil. The soil must have air to be fertile. 

 In short, if your garden is to produce all that it should 

 you must cultivate it. That is especially true if it is a 

 heavy clay soil. 



How To Make A Hot Bed or Cold Frame 



Select a southern or southeastern exposure for the 

 location. Frames of various sizes may be made from those hold- 

 ing one sash or more. Make a box-like frame of heavy lumber, 

 as wide and as long as desirable, the back of the frame being 12 

 inches high and the front 8 inches high. Dig a pit about 1 J feet 

 deep, and line the sides with boards. Fill the pit with fresh 

 stable manure which contains a good supply of straw bedding or 

 leaves, if possible. Pack manure down firmly until it is level 

 with surrounding earth. On top of this manure put rich, light 

 and well sifted soil to a depth of four inches. Cover the frame 

 with the sashes when the manure will generate heat. In a few 

 days the heat will have reached its highest point and start to drop. 

 When it has fallen to 80 or 90 degrees, seeds may be sown. 

 Fresh manure may be packed outside the wooden frames which 

 will help the bed to hold the heat. 



It is not necessary to ventilate the bed until the seed 

 comes up, when air should be given on every bright day by 

 raising the sash slightly at the back. Coverings of old carpet, 

 salt hay or boards should be used at night to protect against 

 danger of the cold. On bright sunny days, before noon, water 

 should be given the plants. Give enough ventilation to dry up 

 any moisture that might be on or around plants. . Water very 

 sparingly during wet or cloudy weather to prevent mildew which 

 causes your young plants to wilt and die. 



The cold frame is used for hardening plants started 

 in the hot bed. It is built like a hot bed but without the pit or 

 manure, the frame resting on the surface of the ground. In 

 mild climates, seed may be started in a cold frame instead of a 

 hot bed. 



