Sept.] 



DEPARTURE FROM RIO JANEIRO. 



37 



doubtedly entitled to some credit. So far as mf own observation ex- 

 tends, their peculiar characteristics appear to be superstition, indolence, 

 filthiness, and an irrepressible propensity for overreaching others in 

 commercial transactions. I wish to be understood as expressing my- 

 self in general terms ; there are, of course, some bright and honour- 

 able exceptions ; but these are by no means confined to the higher 

 classes. The extent to which bribery is carried on in this place by 

 the officers of government, especially in the custom-house, is almost 

 incredible. It is in fact difficult, if not impossible, to bring any busi- 

 ness with government to a consummation, without a frequent applica- 

 tion of the golden spur, alias an exorbitant fee — in plain English, a 

 bribe. Their cupidity seems to know no bounds, but eternally cries, 

 "Give! give!" 



In Rio Janeiro ignorance of every thing but trade prevails to a 

 melancholy degree, literature and science being almost totally unknown 

 among the people, who are at least a century behind the age they live in. 

 Nothing but an arbitrary government can restrain them from cutting 

 each other's throats. Several generations must pass over the stage 

 before the great mass of Brazilians will be capable of appreciating and 

 enjoying liberal institutions. Those who know how to read are too 

 indolent for the task ; while others are too lazy to learn. The mag- 

 nificence and luxury of the wealthy and titled classes form a curious 

 contrast with their habitual want of neatness and cleanliness. This is 

 manifested in their skin, in their apparel, in the furniture of their 

 houses, and in their cookery, which could not fail to disgust a citizen 

 of the United States. Their persons are seldom if ever free from a 

 species of vermin which among us is considered disgraceful ; and 

 that cutaneous disease which is the necessary concomitant of filth and 

 unwholesome food is common to aH 



CHAPTER II. 



Departure from Rio Janeiro to survey the Coast of Patagonia — Cape Corrientes 

 — White Bay — Rio Colorado — Rio Negro : Character and Manners of the In- 

 habitants, with Directions for entering the Harbour — Patagonia — Marvellous 

 Stories — St. Matias's Bay — New Bay — Shooting Bullocks and other Game — 

 St. George's Bay — Apology to the Reader — Cape Blanco — Port Desire, with 

 Sailing Directions — Port St. Julian and Santa Cruz, with Instructions for ap- 

 proaching and entering — A Sabbath-day's Adventure — Description of the Na- 

 tives, their Size, Dress, Mode of Living, Origin, &c. — Survey suspended — 

 Arrival at the Falkland Islands — News of the Henry. 



We took our leave of Rio Janeiro on Saturday morning, the 7th day 

 of September, with a fine land breeze and pleasant weather. In look- 

 ing back upon the beautiful scenery now rapidly receding behind us, 

 one could not help regretting that the moral did not better correspond 

 with the physical aspect of this charming country. Turrets and 

 domes, castellated towers and gothic spires, churches, convents, and 



