36 



SURROUNDING COUNTRY. 



[1822. 



the nobility and gentry of St. Sebastian's. On both sides, the shores 

 of this romantic gulf are lined, at the water's edge, with neat cottages 

 occupied by fishermen ; back of which, on the green hills, sloping 

 gradually towards the water, are villas and farm-houses, churches and 

 monasteries, all painted white, showing in beautiful relief from the ver- 

 dant background. 



When the mariner has fairly entered this delightful recess from Nep- 

 tune's turbulent realm, he is immediately struck with one of the most 

 magnificent spectacles in the whole compass of nature ; a bay one hun- 

 dred miles in circumference, surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of 

 mountains, which rise in every varied form conceivable, and are cov- 

 ered with eternal verdure. Vessels of all dimensions may enter, and 

 repose with perfect security anywhere below the island on which the 

 English hospital is situated. Above this the water becomes gradually 

 more shallow ; so that in many places there is not sufficient depth for 

 vessels of more than twenty tons burthen. Even here, however, a 

 great deal of business is done by means of large boats. 



The district of Braganza, lying on the north-east side of the har- 

 bour, forms also an interesting feature in the picturesque panorama I 

 am attempting to describe. It comprises a small town of the same 

 name, and many villages and hamlets along the shores of the basin. 

 Here is an estate of considerable extent, which was presented to Sir 

 Sidney Smith by the late King of Portugal, in compliment for his ser- 

 vices to the royal family and court. 



The country for a great distance around is peculiarly beautiful ; the 

 mountains being high and woody, and the valleys perfect gardens. 

 The most delicious fruits are found here in the greatest abundance, 

 particularly oranges. One tree often exhibits at the same time the 

 blossom, the fruit just formed, and the same in all its various stages of 

 advancement to full and perfect ripeness. The quantity of this fruit in 

 the orange-market is truly astonishing. The pine-apple is also here in 

 great perfection. In the neighbourhood are several botanic gardens, 

 belonging principally to merchants and private individuals, and con- 

 taining many rare and valuable plants not to be met with in this country. 

 Attempts have been made to introduce the tea-plant, but without 

 success. 



All the agricultural and other labours are performed exclusively by 

 slaves — wretched sufferers in this Eden of the south. Indeed it is 

 almost impossible for a reflecting mind to view the city and surround- 

 ing country without being forcibly struck with the contrast which must 

 necessarily present itself. On the one hand, he may contemplate an 

 imperial court, unrivalled in luxury ; on the other, slavery in its most 

 horrid and appalling forms of cruelty and suffering ! Nobility and 

 gentry dozing away their listless lives in indolent supineness ; slaves 

 bowed to the earth by excessive labour beneath a tropical sun ! 



The general character of the inhabitants of Rio Janeiro, though far 

 more refined than that of the northern provinces of Brazil, seldom 

 rises to an elevated degree on the scale of moral improvement. For- 

 eigners have not hesitated to brand them with the stigma of craft and 

 perfidy ; and the corroborating testimony of many journalists is un- 



