July.] 



ISLAND OF SANTA MARIA. 



105 



near the centre of the concave shore, which, from the south head to the 

 watering-place, is a high steep bank ; but from thence to the north- , 

 east point, it is a low sandy beach. Thus, all around the island, the 

 shore in some places is a sandy beach, while in other places it is iron- 

 bound, with steep banks from one to two hundred feet above the level 

 of the sea, and as perpendicular as the Hudson Palisades. 



Many years ago the island of Santa Maria was stocked with black- 

 cattle and several other kinds of animals ; and a small settlement of 

 Spaniards existed here previous to the last war between Spain and 

 England, who cultivated various kinds of fruit trees and garden vege- 

 tables. But during the war they found themselves annoyed by the 

 English cruisers, who made the island a place of rendezvous, and 

 finally abandoned the settlement. I have it from pretty good authority, 

 however, that the English commanders never took or allowed to be 

 taken from them any thing but what was liberally paid for in specie. 



The little colony have left behind them many memorials of their taste 

 and industry. Among these I have since seen a number of apple-trees 

 in good condition ; several kinds of garden herbs, such as balm, sage, 

 saffron, and all kinds of mint ; likewise rose-bushes, currants, goose- 

 berries, &c. The soil is very rich, and of easy cultivation, being level 

 and clear of stones, which is the case indeed with most of the tillage- 

 land all along this coast. This island would produce every kind of 

 vegetables, if properly cultivated. The air is remarkably pure, the 

 atmosphere generally serene, the climate temperate, and the prospects 

 delightful. 



The island of Santa Maria is about four leagues in circumference, 

 and the southern extremity is a great resort for shags, which come on 

 shore in the evening to roost for the night, and repair to the sea again 

 in the morning in search of food. I have seen more than two thousand 

 of these birds laying their course for the ocean before sunrise, and have 

 watched their return at sunset in the evening. Their eggs are very 

 fine eating, and one hundred barrels of them, in the proper season, may 

 be collected in a very short time. Gulls' eggs also can be gathered 

 in great abundance on the north-east part of the island, and they are 

 equally palatable. There are various other kinds of birds on this 

 island, among which I have noticed ducks, teal, eagles, hawks, turkey- 

 buzzards, and curlews of two different sorts. Besides these, there are 

 many small beach and land-birds. Good fish may also be caught here 

 with hook and line or with a seine, and right whales frequent the bay 

 in the calving season. It is likewise a great resort for hair-seals. 



On the main opposite this island, in the direction of east-south-east, 

 is a beautiful river, the banks of which are very fertile, abounding with 

 many kinds of fruits that are common in North America ; among f 2iese 

 are peaches and pears, of a quality far superior to ours. On the north 

 side of this river, which is called Toolvool, once stood the little town 

 of Arruco, which was burnt by the pirate Benavides in 1821 . Previous 

 to this wanton outrage, ships lying under the island were usually sup- 

 plied with refreshments from this town at a very low rate, and in any 

 quantity that might be desired. The articles then obtained here by 

 sending the boats were, bullocks, sheep, hogs, goats, fowls, apples, 



