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162 ISLAND OF CHILOE. [1824.' 



risen into notice and importance, and is now considered the capital of 

 the island. There are three or four small ports or villages on the 

 west side, but they are seldom entered except by fishing craft. St. 

 Carlos is in latitude 41° 51' S., long. 73° 54' W., and is situated on the 

 north-west part of the island. 



This town is very well built, the houses generally being constructed 

 of a kind of freestone, with terraces or piazzas in front, and one 

 story high, which is the usual practice on this coast, as a necessary 

 precaution against the effects of earthquakes and volcanic agitations. But 

 few of them, however, are in the old Spanish style, with flat roofs. 

 The streets are laid out in a very regular manner, wide and straight, but 

 destitute of pavement. Among the public buildings are two elegant 

 churches, two monasteries, one college of Jesuits, and several nunneries. 



Although a very small portion of the inhabitants are Europeans, the 

 most of them are truly Spanish, in features, character, and language. 

 Indeed, so much intermarrying has heretofore taken place between the 

 Spaniards and the aborigines, that there are very few now born on the 

 island who cannot boast of Castilian blood, in a greater or less degree. 

 The features of the females are more European and better formed 

 than those of the ladies in the northern part of Chili. 



The religion in Chiloe is of course Roman Catholic ; and all the 

 islands in the archipelago are under the same ecclesiastical govern- 

 ment. The native Indians who inhabit these islands appear to be 

 well contented, and perfectly submissive to all the requirements of the 

 church ; and while eating their salted seal's flesh, are no doubt as 

 happy as their more luxurious rulers. Chiloe is the see of a bishop, 

 who resides at St. Carlos. While these islands were in possession 

 of old Spain, as was the case at the time of my visit, a considerable 

 military force was necessary to maintain their sovereignty, and the 

 principal part of this force was stationed at St. Carlos. The poor 

 Indians on the main frequently felt the weight of their leaden argu- 

 ments ; for it was then fashionable to convert these persecuted people 

 by force of arms. Most of the new proselytes of course became 

 slaves to the conquerors, thus benefiting both church and state at the 

 same time. 



The natives on the continent opposite Chiloe have been harassed, 

 oppressed, and hunted with nearly as much ruthless ferocity as were 

 the aborigines farther north. A long series of such " tender mercies" 

 from a people professing to be disciples of the Prince of peace has 

 much reduced their numbers, and driven the remnant back from the 

 coast, to enjoy their savage independence among the mountains and 

 forests on the west of Patagonia. No wonder if such wanton and 

 unmerited injuries have rendered many of them desperate, and made 

 them ten times more savage than they would otherwise have been. 

 They could easily be tamed by kindness ; but they will suffer much, 

 sooner than submit to force. They are mostly descended from 

 the Araucanians, a people that inhabit the rich and fertile districts 

 which lie between the rivers Biobio and Valdivia, in the southern 

 part of Chili. The Spaniards have called it Araucanian Flanders, or 

 the invincible state ; and some of the Spanish poets have had the mag- 



