Dec] RETROSPECTIVE OBSERVATIONS. 



171 



The church is large and capacious, but not elevated, on account of 

 earthquakes. It is richly endowed, and the interior is fitted up and 

 embellished in a style of considerable splendour. In these embellish- 

 ments the precious metals are not spared, particularly about the altars. 

 Some of the columns are plated with silver an inch thick ; while the 

 drapery, curtains, cushions, and tassels are all of rich silk crimson 

 damask. The bell is large, and in fair weather may be heard at a 

 great distance. The amusements of both sexes, at evening or after- 

 noon parties, are similar to those of the citizens of St. Carlos. 



November 30th. — From the river Tolten we continued our course to 

 the north. The coast from Valdivia to the island of Mocha is en- 

 tirely free from dangers half a mile from the shore, and continues the 

 same to the island of St Maria south of the river Biobio. From Val- 

 divia to Carnero Bay the course is about north-north-west one-quarter 

 north ; and from thence to St. Maria the course is north-by-west, and 

 north-half- west. We landed at the river Tarua, bearing east-by-north 

 from the island of Mocha, distant about six leagues. The landing at 

 the mouth of this river is very good at high-water. 



There is a small village on the south bank of this river, called by 

 the natives Yapelhue, where refreshments of every kind may be had 

 on the most moderate terms. The inhabitants are Araucanians, and 

 are a very good-natured, friendly sort of people. Their property con- 

 sists principally of cattle, sheep, and hogs. They also raise an abun- 

 dance of fruit, particularly apples, of which they make very good cider. 

 The mouth of this river is in latitude 38° 18' S., long. 73° 45' W. 



From this last-mentioned place to the island of St. Maria there are 

 several small rivulets, but they are not even navigable for boats. The 

 back country presents to the mariner, as he sails along this coast from 

 one to three miles off-shore, one of the most pleasing and picturesque 

 appearances I have ever witnessed in any part of the world ; and the 

 snores are entirely free from dangers. We saw a few small rookeries 

 of hair-seals on the beaches to the south of the Bay of Carnero. 



On the south side of the last-mentioned bay is the highland of Tu- 

 eapel, a rocky mountain about two thousand feet above the level of the 

 sea, from which it rises in a bluff precipice, forming a very conspicu- 

 ous mark for this part of the coast, as there is no other elevated land 

 between the island of Mocha and Conception Bay, 



December 3d. — On Friday, the 3d of December, we passed the 

 mouth of Port Conception, within about one mile of the shore. 



By this time the reader must be aware that every mile of the east 

 coast of Patagonia, from Cape Corrientes to the Strait of Magellan, 

 through the strait to Cape Victory, and from thence to Port Concep- 

 tion, through the Gulf of Guaytecas, has been carefully examined by 

 my boats ; and wherever there is no danger mentioned in this journal, 

 the reader may be sure that the passage or coast is safe. If a frank, 

 open, plain statement of facts should obtain currency, instead of those 

 highly wrought descriptions of dangers which border on romance, I am 

 led to believe that navigation in the most distant parts of the world 

 will, in a short time, be considered equally safe and easy as that be- 

 tween America and Europe. All that is necessary to bring about this 



