172 



TOWN OF CHILLAN. 



[1824 



desirable result is for every navigator to give unvarnished statements 

 of things as they really and actually exist ; and not attempt to enhance 

 his own reputation for skill and courage by exaggerating the difficulties 

 he has encountered and overcome. From the long experience which 

 I have had, in the most windy, blustering, and boisterous seas, — along 

 coasts, around capes, and through straits, on almost every part of the 

 globe's surface, I can assert with confidence, without the fear of the 

 fact's being disproved, that there is no worse weather or more hazard- 

 ous navigation, in any latitude or longitude, than there is on the coast 

 of North America. 



It is a melancholy fact that most disastrous accidents have occurred, 

 and will again occur, to the best of ships, commanded by the most 

 able navigators, and manned by the most efficient crews. But where 

 there is one fact of this description, there are many of a very different 

 character. Some ship-masters, I am sorry to say it, do not understand 

 their duty, and are not competent to fill the station to which they have 

 aspired ; others, who are better qualified, are deficient in energy and 

 decision, and have not confidence in their own judgment. Many dis- 

 asters are attributable to both these facts ; and they are published to 

 the world as so many evidences of unavoidable perils in navigation. 



As before stated, we passed Port Conception on the 3d of Decem- 

 ber, and traced the shore along to the northward, for the distance of 

 thirteen leagues, to the river Itata. The coast between the two places 

 runs north-by-west, with a bold shore, free from dangers a little more 

 than two cables' length from the beach. 



On the north bank of the river Itata, about ten miles from its en- 

 trance, is the little town of Colemu, inhabited by about six hundred 

 Araucanians, and one Catholic priest, a native of Old Spain. Farther 

 up the river, at the distance of about seventy miles, on the same side, 

 stands the populous town of Chilian,* containing about twelve hundred 

 inhabitants of tb> same race, who are blest with seven Catholic 

 priests, besides about thirty other persons from Spain, England, and 

 the United States, most of whom have absconded from ships engaged 

 in the whaling business, while watering at Talcaguano, and settled 

 here ; having taken " wives of the daughters of the land," with whom 

 they appear to live very happily. This town can boast of two churches 

 and a convent. The inhabitants are a very active, industrious people, 

 engaged in rural and pastoral occupations, particularly in raising wheat 

 and cattle. A considerable quantity of grain is shipped from this place 

 to Conception and Valparaiso, in small vessels of one hundred tons 

 and less, navigated by the natives of the coast. 



On spring tides, the water has a depth of ten feet as far up this 

 river as the town first mentioned ; between which and Chilian inter- 

 course is kept open by small flat canoes. In the summer season, a 

 ship may anchor in a small bay about three miles to the northward of 



* This town, which is also called San Bartholomew, is the capital of the province of Chilian, the 

 latter being twelve leagues from north to south, and twenty-five from east to west. Its plains, being 

 considerably elevated, afford excellent pasture for sheep, whose wool is reckoned of a superior 

 quality. The province Itata, between Chilian and the coast, is eleven leagues from north to south, 

 and twenty-three from east to west. It produces the best wine in all Chili, k«nown by the name 

 of Conception wine, from its being the product of lands belonging to the inhabitants of that city. 



