Dec] 



BLOCKADE OF CALLAO. 



177 



a bar that lies before the town ; but at most times one can land with a 

 good boat, and always procure plenty of refreshments, if the govern- 

 ment will give permission. The town is much larger than the other 

 small ports on some parts of the coast, but it is an inconsiderable place. 

 It stands on a plain which is low, and runs for some miles back before 

 it borders on the mountains, and appears handsome in comparison with 

 any place south of this till you get to Coquimbo. It is tolerably well 

 supplied with all kinds of provisions, vegetables, and fruit ; but the 

 fresh water is not very good. The houses are built after the style of 

 Conception and Valparaiso : the habits and customs of the people are 

 likewise similar. 



" The country back has a much better aspect (on account of the 

 level ground before you come to the mountains) than any place to the 

 south for many degrees. The bay would accommodate any number 

 of ships, and afford them good shelter. The islands to the westward 

 of it are large, and afford nothing but seals, eggs, and bird-manure : 

 the latter is a great article of trade on the coast of Peru," &c. 



Dec. 25th. — After examining Sangallan's Island and the Chinca 

 Islands for fur-seals, with very little success, although hair-seals were 

 plenty, we sailed for the port of Callao, the seaport and citadel of " the 

 queen of cities," as Lima was formerly called by the Spaniards. This 

 was on Saturday, the 25th of December ; the weather was pleasant, 

 and we were wafted along with a fresh breeze from south-south-east. 

 At two o'clock on the following morning we came to anchor in Callao 

 roads, in four fathoms of water, muddy bottom, about two cable's length 

 from the landing-place. 



The Bay of Callao is protected from the prevailing south winds by 

 a long neck of land which projects into the sea, and by the large island 

 of St. Lorenzo, which rises opposite to this cape ; also by the small 

 islands of Fronton and El Corcobado. The island of St. Lorenzo is 

 readily known, on making it from the west or south-west, by the hills 

 or peaks on its north end. There are several small rocky islets lying 

 off the south end of this island ; but there is deep water between them, 

 and a clear passage for running into Callao, keeping St. Lorenzo best 

 on board, until the castle on Callao Point opens north of the low sandy 

 point to the west of it. But though this entrance to Callao is perfectly 

 safe for those who are acquainted with it, I would advise strangers to 

 go round the north end of St. Lorenzo. The shore on the north side 

 of the bay is bold, and free from dangers. 



Callao was at this time in possession of the royal troops, under 

 General Rodil, commandant of the castle and fortress by which the 

 place is defended. Although the port was declared to be under block- 

 ade by the patriots, I found no difficulty in passing in unmolested. The 

 independence of Peru had been at length accomplished by the decisive 

 victory of Ayacucho, fought seventeen days before my arrival. Bolivar 

 was then at Lima, invested with dictatorial powers, and the main body 

 of the liberating army from Colombia was commanded by Antonio Jose de 

 Sucre. Five months of skilful manoeuvring on either side preceded the 

 battle : the result is well known ; the royalists were defeated with great 

 slaughter. La Serna the viceroy was pursued and taken prisoner ; 



M 



