April.] 



TOWN OF SAN DIEGO. 



201 



convert and civilize a barren and ungrateful country, while New Cali- 

 fornia, a fine populous region, but a few leagues farther north, was 

 suffered to remain unexplored, and almost unvisited. This beautiful 

 territory, which would have most amply repaid all their exertions if 

 properly colonized, was not occupied by the Spaniards until one hun- 

 dred and sixty-seven years after its discovery. 



The town of San Diego is four miles from the landing at the fort, in 

 a north-east direction. Its form is nearly circular, and it is surrounded 

 by a wall about twenty feet in height, which forms the back sides of 

 the houses, the latter being erected against it, and fronting inwardly. 

 There are about two hundred and fifty houses erected in this manner, 

 from one to two stories high, built of freestone, and neatly finished. 

 There is also a large church, one nunnery, and a very neat little court- 

 house. This town contains about 1500 inhabitants, principally natives 

 of the coast, and they appear to be a very agreeable, friendly kind 

 of people, but not quite so cleanly and industrious as could be wished. 

 Their principal employment is attending herds of cattle, and cultivating 

 some small patches of earth, which produce wheat, vegetables, &c. 

 They are much addicted to such amusements as are common to all the 

 Spanish settlements on the western coast of America, from California 

 to Chiloe, viz. horse-racing, cock-fighting, and bull-baiting, which are 

 enjoyed with equal zest by both sexes. In equestrian exercises they 

 are but little inferior to the Chilotes ; and will break a wild horse, so 

 that he will become perfectly tractable, by only once riding him : they 

 are also very expert in the use of the lasso, with which they catch the 

 wild cattle ; and their hunting excursions in the mountains are replete 

 with interest aad excitement to the lovers of field-sports. 



The females have generally fine forms, and expressive countenances. 

 Their eyes are dark and sparkling, and they dress their long black 

 hair in a very tasteful and becoming manner, with folds and braids. 

 Their hands and feet are remarkably small, and they generally display 

 an extremely delicate ankle. They also delight in equestrian exer- 

 cises, and usually honour each side of the horse with a beautiful little 

 foot and ankle. Their evenings are commonly passed in small cote- 

 ries, or parties of both sexes, where they amuse themselves and each 

 other with singing, playing the guitar, dancing, &c. Their favourite 

 dance is the Spanish fandango. 



April 22d. — On the day after our arrival in the port of San Diego, 

 we landed the materials, forge, <fcc, and commenced the building of a 

 new whale-boat, of which we stood very much in need. This task 

 employed our carpenter and men eleven days, which gave myself and 

 officers an ample opportunity of examining the town, and forming ac- 

 quaintances among the inhabitants, who treated us with the greatest 

 hospitality and most polite attention. We regularly attended their 

 favourite amusements and evening parties, several of which were pro- 

 jected expressly on our account. Horses were always at our service, 

 which afforded us several delightful rural excursions, one of which will 

 furnish an incident for the next chapter. 



The passage into this beautiful bay is plain, easy, and safe. Theie 

 is a flat on the east shore of the entrance, which runs off to the west- 



