March.] LEAVE MAGELLAN'S STRAIT. 249 



by-north course, for about twenty-five miles, travelling over an undu- 

 lating soil, well covered with grass and small shrubbery, but almost 

 entirely destitute of trees. At the distance just mentioned, we came 

 to a thick and heavy-timbered forest, which we found it necessary to 

 approach with extreme caution, as it was evidently tenanted by wild 

 beasts, some of which we were aware, by certain unequivocal indica- 

 tions, weje not of the most lamb-like propensities. The tracks of lions 

 and tigers were easily distinguished ; and we saw a great number of 

 foxes, deer, hares, guanacoes, nutrias, horses, and a few black-cattle. 

 Ostriches were numerous, and every tree afforded lodgment to various 

 kinds of birds, of exquisite plumage, some of which were pouring forth 

 strains of the sweetest sylvan melody. 



Lead and copper ore we found in considerable quantities lying upon 

 the surface of the earth, having been broken off from the projecting 

 cliffs which overhung the beautiful valleys through which we passed. 

 Petrified oyster-shells also presented themselves in the sides of several 

 precipitous rocks, at a considerable distance above their base. 



But the most interesting incident of our excursion was an interview 

 with the natives, who treated us in the most friendly and hospitable 

 manner, although it was with extreme difficulty that we could make 

 them understand our meaning on any subject. As usual, they were all 

 on horseback, men, women, and children, at the time we fell in with 

 them, with large droves of guanacoes under their care ; but they soon 

 dismounted, and made preparations for a repast, of which they invited 

 us to partake. One of their number, who appeared very expert in the 

 double office of butcher and cook, killed a fine fat guanaco, and after 

 dressing it in suitable manner, roasted it by a large fire which was kin- 

 dled for the purpose. We all ate heartily of it, and pronounced it 

 equal to the finest mutton we had ever tasted. The wool of these ani- 

 mals is equal to the best merino. 



These men were tall, and well proportioned. Several whom we 

 measured stood six feet two inches, and six feet three inches ; one only 

 was six feet four inches, and he was the tallest we saw. Their horse- 

 manship is equal to that of the Chiloteze, the Mamelukes, or any 

 equestrians I have ever seen. A company of them in a New- York 

 circus would soon secure the manager a fortune. Both sexes ride 

 alike, and their dress is nearly the same, such as I have already de- 

 scribed in another place. On intimating our intention of departing, they 

 politely furnished each of us a horse, and escorted us near to the 

 vessel ; they then suddenly left us, as if under apprehensions of meet- 

 ing with a hostile tribe. They were all armed with spears, bows and 

 arrows, and the lasso. 



March 1 3th. — -We arrived on board the Tartar on Monday, and at 

 9, P. M., we got under way, and steered for the eastern mouth of the 

 strait, with a fresh breeze from west-south-west, and clear weather. 

 On the following morning, at 7 o'clock, we passed Cape Virgin, and at 

 9, A. M., we took our departure therefrom, the cape bearing west-by- 

 south, distant seven leagues. 



March 15th. — On Wednesday we arrived at the Falkland Islands 

 and at 8, P. M., anchored in Hallett's Harbour, in four fathoms o* 



