July.] 



BONAVISTA. 



265 



houses, of a better sort, belonging to the governor and his subordinate 

 officers. Those are plastered and whitewashed, and present a decent 

 cheerful appearance. There is also an edifice of a barn-like appear- 

 ance, without spire or ornament, which they call a church. The only 

 indications of domestic trade are two or three mean-looking shops, 

 containing an " unassorted assortment" of miscellaneous articles, 

 among which I observed various kinds of American cotton goods, and 

 English earthenware, together with hats, shoes, &c. of Portuguese 

 fabric. 



It was 5, P. M., when I went on shore, and a negro sentinel con- 

 ducted me to the governor's residence. I found his excellency at din- 

 ner with a family circle, consisting of his wife, two daughters, several 

 fat monks, and two or three officers. The honour of my visit was 

 totally unexpected, as appeared by the ladies (brunettes of the half- 

 caste) being in their dishabilles, and making a precipitate retreat from 

 my presence. Whether each fair one's " tunic" was of " the finest 

 lawn," I had no opportunity of ascertaining; but I did ascertain that 

 their lovely limbs were unrestrained by any thing but chemise and pet- 

 ticoat ; those are temptations, however, which seamen must learn to 

 encounter with cool indifference, or they would be in hot water too 

 often. I made some commonplace apology for my abrupt intrusion, 

 as the ladies retreated in evident confusion ; but they soon returned, 

 richly attired, and performed the rites of hospitality with an ease, grace, 

 and dignity of deportment that quite charmed me. 



His excellency, who is no other than the wealthy Portuguese alluded 

 to in the last chapter, Don Martinez, proprietor of the island of Sal 

 and a considerable part of Bonavista, speaks very good English, and 

 was very solicitous to render my situation agreeable. On learning my 

 business, he requested that I would allow him the pleasure of procur- 

 ing the salt for me, at the same time taking no little pains to convince 

 me that he was influenced by no interested motives in thus tendering 

 his services. To these asseverations I of course made the requisite 

 responses, and ordered one thousand bushels of salt. This order the 

 governor handed over to the captain of the port, who wears the naval 

 uniform of Portugal, and is one of the most insinuating and persever- 

 iug beggars I ever met with. As a specimen of the manner in which 

 lie pursues his vocation take the following ; for I understand he never 

 varies in the process : 



Knowing the weak side of Jonathan, he commences his attack by 

 a full volley of encomiums on the American nation, and especially on 

 the liberality of her citizens, and most particularly on the gentlemanly 

 deportment and noble generosity of her ship-masters. Before the be- 

 sieged can have time to recover from the shock of this sudden and un- 

 expected assault, the archery of black laughing eyes are brought to the 

 charge, and pour a shower of poisoned darts into the very heart of the 

 fortress. In plain English, his wife desired him to ask the generous 

 captain if he could sell her daughters some butter, as they were ex- 

 tremely fond of American butter, and preferred it to that of every other 

 nation. To be sure, he had rebuked his better half for making such a 

 proposition, as American officers would be highly offended at the bare 



♦ 



