270 



CAPE VERDS. 



[1828. 



St. Jago, or Santiago, is the largest, the best cultivated, and the most 

 fertile of the Cape Verd Islands. It abounds, however, with high, 

 barren mountains, which may be seen in clear weather at a consider- 

 able distance. The south-east extremity of this island is a very long 

 low point, and presents that appearance in approaching it from the 

 north or south. Three or four miles to the westward of this point is a 

 bay, with a brown sandy beach ; and at the head of this bay are two 

 or three houses and a grove of date-trees. This bay must not be mis- 

 taken for that of Port Pray a, as its eastern point is surrounded by rocks 

 extending two hundred fathoms into the sea, which does not always 

 break upon it. 



We passed this bay, and kept along the coast to the westward 

 towards Port Praya, within one mile of the shore, in eight or ten fath- 

 oms of water, until the battery and flag-staff were plainly distinguished 

 on the west point of the harbour, off which the sea always breaks at 

 some distance. We then rounded the eastern point, within two cables' 

 length, in from six to eight fathoms of water, — in doing which, the 

 custom-house opened to view on the beach, and a grove of date-trees 

 in the valley. Immediately afterward the town and fort presented 

 themselves on the hill at the head of the bay. The eastern shore, 

 which should be kept close on board, is high bluff land, which has the 

 appearance of being parched and barren. We stood in for the town, 

 and chose our anchorage as before stated. 



July 28th. — On the following morning, which was Monday, the 28th, 

 I went on shore to wait on the captain-general of the island, whose 

 residence is at Port Praya, although Ribeira Grande, a town seven or 

 eight miles farther west, is the capital of St. Jago. On entering the 

 gateway of the town I was received by a negro, who conducted me to 

 the palace of his excellency, — for such it might be called, when com- 

 pared with the miserable hovels in its vicinity. Its external was white- 

 washed, which gave it a tolerably decent appearance. 



After being formally announced by a ragged sentinel, I was led 

 up a ladder, into a large apartment, rough and unfinished. The raf- 

 ters and floor were just as the materials came from the sawpit, with- 

 out paint, or other decoration, excepting some rude prints of the 

 Virgin Mary, a few saints, &c. Here I found the general at break- 

 fast, with half a dozen monks wrapped in frieze, with figures and 

 countenances that indicated any thing but abstinence and penance. 

 The general's lady was also present, together with three other Portu- 

 guese females of no ordinary personal attractions. They all spoke 

 tolerably good Spanish, and in that language I was able to converse 

 with them. 



As the Antarctic was the first American which had touched here 

 for some time, they had a thousand questions to ask respecting the 

 United States, and the manners, customs, &c. of the people, especi- 

 ally the dress and amusements of the American ladies. Having 

 gratified them in all these important particulars, and partaken of a cup 

 of coffee with the ladies, agreeably to the custom of the place, I took 

 a turn with them in the garden, which was more tastefully arranged 

 than any thing of the kind I had seen in any other island of the group, 



