272 



CAPE VERDS. 



[1828 



in addition to a salary from the crown of two hundred dollars per 

 month. 



As I was crossing the parade-ground, on my way to visit the forti- 

 fications, I again encountered my fair friends, the ladies with whom I 

 had breakfasted, and with whom I had promised to dine. On learning 

 my purpose, they politely offered to accompany me, a proposition 

 which I eagerly accepted. We accordingly left the promenade to- 

 gether, and proceeded to what is here denominated a fort, but which 

 would become almost any other appellation equally well. Behind 

 the ruins of a parapet-wall, which once faced the bay, are planted 

 sixteen old iron cannon of different calibers. Besides this post, sev- 

 eral high platform points that surround the bay are also defended in 

 a similar manner, each of which is guarded by a negro family. There 

 are no regular troops, neither European nor native, a few Portuguese 

 officers excepted ; so that the defence of these works must depend 

 upon the militia, one of whom is seen standing as sentinel, at the 

 distance of every dozen yards, throughout the town. These wretched 

 men exactly correspond with the fortifications, both in dress and 

 accoutrements. They are of all possible complexions that a painter's 

 imagination can conceive, and if paraded according to shades, would 

 furnish a practical illustration of the following paradoxical couplet • 



" Falsehood and truth, opposed like black and white, 

 By unperceived gradations may unite." 



With respect to their arms, scarcely one musket in ten can boast the 

 convenient appendage of a lock, or at least one that will give fire ; 

 and about half their gun-barrels are actually lashed to their stocks by 

 cords, thongs of leather, or wire ! And as regards personal appearance, 

 FalstafT's forces were a troop of dandies to them. 



When vessels are about to sail, the governor requires them to notify 

 him of the time, in order that he may make signals for the different 

 batteries to let them pass. I could scarcely refrain from smiling 

 when his excellency informed me that this was a necessary ceremony, 

 and at the same time gravely assuring me that on my hoisting a flag 

 at the fore, he would immediately give orders by signal for the batte- 

 ries not to detain my vessel. I applauded the arrangement, and ex- 

 pressed my acknowledgments for his politeness ; although I was sat- 

 isfied that with the crew of the Antarctic, I might land and spike every 

 gun in the place, and then go to sea at our leisure. The bay of Port 

 Praya, however, possesses the greatest capabilities of being strongly 

 fortified against nautical assailants ; and by a simple wall, erected in 

 those places where the sides of the table-hill are not perpendicular, 

 the town might be secured from a coup de main. 



In the centre of the governor's citadel (the fortifications we were 

 now examining) is the grave of a brave English officer, Captain Eve- 

 leigh ; the spot being distinguished by a patch of pavement of round 

 pebbles. This highly meritorious naval officer commanded his Bri- 

 tannic majesty's ship Acteon, rated as a sloop-of-war, and was slain in 

 action with a French frigate. 



