JOURNEY TO GUATEMALA. 



55 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Preparations for Travelling. — Passage of " the Mountain." — An Encoun- 

 ter. — The " Arroyo del Muerto." — A Repast in the Woods. — The Ran- 

 cheria. — Don Jose a Philosopher. 



We rose early on the 12th of May, to enter upon the 

 long and difficult journey that lay before us. My prepa- 

 rations, and those of Mr. M., were soon brought to a con- 

 clusion. Such was not the case with our Spanish friend 

 and companion, Don Jose. The caparisons of his mule 

 alone, consisted of such a variety of articles, that no lit- 

 tle time and ingenuity were required for their arrange- 

 ment. After putting into the animal's mouth three or 

 four pounds of iron in the shape of a bit, a sheep's skin of 

 fine long wool, dyed blue, was thrown over a ponderous 

 Mexican saddle, and the whole fastened on by sundry 

 girths and straps. This saddle was secured, in front, by 

 a poitrel, or broad strap, rudely embroidered with silk of 

 various colours, and behind by a crupper of the same 

 description. The saddle-bow was graced with a pair of 

 heavy horse-pistols, and on each side was suspended a 

 goat's skin with the hair on, reaching from the shoulders 

 of the mule to her knees. These skins were called 

 armas de agua, and their object is to protect the legs of 

 the rider from the rain. 



The equipment of Don Jose himself was a riding- 

 dress of serge, a broad-brimmed Panama hat, a pair of 

 heavy plated spurs, and a sort of gaiters called rodilleras, 

 consisting of two pieces of fine calf-skin wrapped round 

 the lower part of the legs, and secured under the knees 

 by a piece of coloured tape. 



In fine, Don Jose looked so well and so grand, that 



