JOURNEY TO GUATEMALA. 



59 



the other side of the mountain, when we heard the cries 

 of muleteers and the tramp of mules at a little distance 

 before us. A few minutes after, we fell in with a caravan 

 coming in the direction we were going ; and before any 

 thing could be done to prevent it, both parties were 

 mixed up together. Now, let the reader picture to him- 

 self the mules jostling and getting foul of each other, 

 falling down, or running out of the path into the woods, 

 the drivers lashing and cursing them, and trying in vain 

 to set them right, and he will have an idea of the trouble 

 and confusion that ensued. After a while, however, order 

 being restored, we resumed our march, and commenced 

 descending. The country that lay before us was of a 

 character analogous to that we had passed, only with less 

 declivity, and presented a succession of woody heights 

 and deep glens as far as the eye could reach. The 

 ground, in hollow places, was moist and slippery, though 

 it had not rained for some time before. Some of the 

 passes, too, which were steep and rocky, were not with- 

 out their difficulties and dangers. I had every reason to 

 be satisfied with the beast which had been procured for 

 me, for, I think, she never even stumbled once ; and this 

 is the more remarkable, since having dismounted in some 

 places that appeared to me dangerous, I fell down twice 

 in spite of all my care. 



The sun had passed the meridian, when we came to a 

 romantic spot, where a copious stream, foaming and 

 brawling over its rocky channel, pursued a winding 

 course towards the Tallies. This stream was called El 

 arroyo del muerto. A shady recess on the banks, where 

 Nature had spread a carpet of the finest green sward, was 

 pointed out by our guide, and here the caravan came to a 

 halt ; for our beasts and ourselves were much fatigued, 

 and in want of some refreshment. Our mules, without 

 waiting to be relieved of their burdens, rushed into the 

 stream, and took a long and copious draught. We, too, 

 were glad to indulge in the liquid element, and drank of 



