JOURNEY TO GUATEMALA. 



61 



procure food for his cattle, and a roof to protect him from 

 the dews of the night or the heat of the sun. We had 

 now accomplished the most arduous part of our task, and 

 surmounted the great difficulty attending a journey into 

 the interior : we had fairly passed the great mountain be- 

 hind Izabal, called Montana del Mico, and generally, as it 

 were, par excellence, denominated simply the mountain. 

 We had achieved in one short day's journey, what some- 

 times requires two or three days. Indeed, there are times, 

 especially in the rainy season, when the passage of this 

 mountain is utterly impracticable, owing to the deep mire 

 and pools of water that obstruct the road ; and cases have 

 occurred of muleteers having been compelled to abandon 

 their loads in the woods for several days, till the weather 

 alforded an opportunity to return for them. In our case 

 the weather had been excellent ; and as it had not rained 

 for some time previously, the road, almost every where, 

 was perfectly dry. 



The few cottages or huts composing the Rancheria, 

 were built of mud and cane, and thatched with leaves. 

 One of the best was cleared out for the accommodation of 

 Don Jose, Mr. M. and myself. A sort of shanty, or roof 

 supported by posts, served as a place of deposit for the 

 merchandize and the baggage. The mules were turned 

 out into the plain to take care of themselves, which, from 

 the abundance of pasturage, they could easily do. These 

 arrangements being made, the next consideration was to 

 procure something for supper, since our only meal, thus 

 far, had been the one at the arroyo del muerto. This ob- 

 ject, however, proved to be one of difficult attainment. 

 There was nothing in the place but frigoles, or black 

 beans, and a few tortillas, or corn cakes. The provisions 

 we had been supplied with at Izabal, had been consumed 

 to the last fragment. This was the first taste I had of the 

 troubles and privations to which a traveller is subject in 

 this wild and half-civilized quarter of the world. Don 

 Jose put the best face he could upon the matter. A genu- 



