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NARRATIVE OF A 



about half an inch thick, full of prickles, and very juicy. 

 It is on the leaves of this tree that the insect from which 

 cochineal is made feeds and propagates. The country 

 now was more generally cultivated, and, in many places, 

 enclosed by wooden fences or by hedges of the agave 

 mexicana, or pita. The river Gualan had to be forded a 

 second time, but with less trouble than before. After 

 passing the river, we entered upon a beautiful tract of 

 land, which had all the appearance of park scenery in 

 England. It was an extensive plain, clothed with a fine 

 short grass, with here and there a group of tall trees, form- 

 ing a delightful grove, perfectly free from underwood. It 

 seemed as if we were riding over the grounds of some 

 prince or nobleman : the appearance of a few deer, or of 

 some stately mansion gleaming through the trees 7 would 

 have made the illusion complete. 



As we approached the town, we passed through various 

 rancherias, the inhabitants of which, mostly Indians, were 

 employed in the manufacture of petates, or mats, of a 

 straw peculiar to the country, which they stain of various 

 colours : an art in which they display no little ingenuity 

 and taste. 



We were within half a mile of Gualan, when we heard 

 the report of a gun from the town, and a moment after, 

 several more shots were fired in succession. The effect 

 upon the whole party was paralysing ; it brought us all 

 suddenly to a halt. Were the factious Indians in posses- 

 sion of the town ? Would it be safe to advance ? Would 

 it not be more prudent to retreat ? Such were the hasty 

 reflections of the moment. Happily, our apprehensions 

 were removed by a woman who was coming from the 

 town, and found us in the midst of consultation. "What 

 is the meaning of the firing we hear in the town ?" was 

 the question addressed to her. " Es una fiesta? (it is a 

 festival,) said she, and proceeded on her way. There was 

 no reason for distrusting this woman, for she was not an 

 Indian, and we resumed our march. As we entered the 



