vi 



CONTENTS, 



CHAPTER VIII. 



Page 



Preparations for Travelling. — Passage of " the Mountain." — An En. 

 counter. — The " Arroyo del Muerto." — A Repast in the Woods.— 

 The Rancheria— Don Jose" a Philosopher. . . , . .55 



CHAPTER IX. 



Fording of a River. — The " Hacienda." — A Natural Park. — Apprehen- 

 sions on the Road. — Gualan. — A Christening. — The Curate of To- 

 coy. — The Fiesta. — St. Isidro. — Rural Theatricals. . . .63 



CHAPTER X. 



Departure from Gualan. — St. Pablo. — The Centenarian. — " Tortillas." 

 — Goitres. — Town of Sacapa. — A Dilemma. — Change of Route. — 

 Valley and Town of Chiquimula. — Cabildos. — The Cautious Ladino. 

 — Mountain of Saltepeque. — The Devout Guide. . . . .74 



CHAPTER XI. 



Town of Esquipulas. — A New Perplexity and Change of Route. — The 

 Curate. — His Domestic Establishment. — His Library. — Attending 

 Mass.— The Shrine of Esquipulas. — The Miracle. . . .83 



CHAPTER XII. 



Departure for St. Salvador. — The "Mai Paso." — Town of Ocotepeque. 

 Scruples of a Quondam Monk. — An Hacienda. — Throwing of the 

 Lazo. — An Awkward Mistake. — The Liberal Housekeeper. . . 89 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Approach to St. Salvador. — Indians and their Dress. — Arrival at the 

 City. — The " Meson." — The Hospitable Frenchman. — The Ameri. 

 can Consul. — Description of St. Salvador. — The Market-Place. — 

 The Vice-President. — The Secretary of State. — Visit to the Cham- 

 ber of Deputies. — A Ball.— The American Janissary. — Departure. . 98 



CHAPTER XIV. 



The Ravine of Guaramal. — Village and Curate of Ateas. — Precautions 

 against Surprise. — My Military Protector. — Volcano of Isalco. — A 

 View of the Pacific. — Sonsonate. — Night View of a Volcanic Erup* 

 tion. — Separation from my Protector. — The Escort. . . 106 



