JOURNEY TO GUATEMALA. 169 



peared a most rude and dangerous contrivance ; and I could 

 not but feel some uneasiness when I found myself suspend- 

 ed in the air by a mere strap, with a rushing stream be- 

 neath me, where, should I fall, I might either be drowned, or 

 dashed to pieces among rocks. The baggage, saddles, and 

 other articles, were sent over in the same way. The mules 

 were driven into the stream, and made to swim across ; 

 but for this purpose they were led to a place considerably 

 above the point where they were to come out on the other 

 side ; the stream being so strong, that they could not pos- 

 sibly have crossed it in a direct line. The shouts of the 

 muleteers, as they forced the mules into the river, and of 

 the men stationed on the other side to prevent their passing 

 the landing-place, made the adjacent woods ring again ; 

 the poor animals, in the mean time, snorting and splashing, 

 as they struggled through the water. One of the mules 

 was near being lost, and two were severely hurt : the rest 

 succeeded in passing without accident. 



Two hours were consumed in this tedious and perilous 

 operation ; and as two more would have been necessary 

 to put things in a condition for continuing our journey, 

 it was determined to suspend our march till the following 

 day. 



We now began to consider how, and where, we were to 

 pass the night. We could see nothing but a miserable 

 hut, inhabited by the man charged with the care of the 

 ferry. This man, however, undertook to provide us a 

 shelter, and conducted us to a small ruinous house, which 

 was public property, situated on the banks of the river, 

 about a hundred yards below the landing-place. There 

 we found a single room, formed by the four walls, a table, 

 and two or three chairs ; and there we took up our quar- 

 ters, leaving the escort and the arrieros to provide for them- 

 selves as well as they could. 



The reckless and improvident spirit exhibited by the 

 former was remarkable. They had received their rations 

 in money; but instead of procuring themselves food 

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