CONTENTS. 



V 



living City.— Indian Tradition respecting this City.— Probably has never been 

 visited by the Whites. — Presents a noble Field for future Enterprise. — Depar- 

 ture.— San Pedro. — Virtue of a Passport. — A difficult Ascent. — Mountain 

 Scenery. — Totonicapan. — An excellent Dinner. — A Country of Aloes. — " River 

 of Blood." — Arrival at Quezaltenango Page 189 



CHAPTER XII. 



Quezaltenango. — Account of it. — Conversion of the Inhabitants to Christianity. 

 — Appearance of the City. — The Convent. — Insurrection. — Carrera's March 

 upon Quezaltenango. — His Treatment of the Inhabitants. — Preparations for 

 Holy Week. — The Church. — A Procession. — Good Friday. — Celebration of the 

 Resurrection. — Opening Ceremony. — The Crucifixion. — A Sermon. — Descent 

 from the Cross. — Grand Procession. — Church of El Calvario. — The Case of 

 the Cura.— Warm Springs of Almolonga 203 



CHAPTER XIII. 



Journey continued.— A Mountain Plain. — Lost Guides. — A trying Moment,— 

 Agua Calientes. — A magnificent View. — Gold Ore. — San Sebastiano. — Gue- 

 guetenango. — Sierra Madre. — A huge Skeleton. — The Ruins. — Pyramidal 

 Structures. — A Vault. — Mounds. — A welcome Addition. — Interior of a Mound. 

 — Vases.— Ascent of the Sierra Madre. — Buena Vista. — The Descent.— Todos 

 Santos.— San Martin. — San Andres Petapan. — A Forest on Fire. — Suffering 

 of the Mules from Swarms of Flies.— San Antonio de Guista . . . 221 



CHAPTER XIV. 



Comfortable Lodgings. — Journey continued. — Stony Road. — Beautiful River. — 

 Suspension Bridge. — The Dolores. — Rio Lagertero. — Enthusiasm brought 

 down. — Another Bridge. — Entry into Mexico.— A Bath. — A Solitary Church. 

 — A Scene of Barrenness. — Zapolouta.— Comitan. — Another Countryman. — 

 More Perplexities. — Official Courtesy. — Trade of Comitan. — Smuggling. — 

 Scarcity of Soap 240 



CHAPTER XV. 



Parting.— Sotana.— A Millionaire— Ocosingo— Ruins.— Beginning of the Rainy 

 Season. — A Female Guide. — Arrival at the Ruins. — Stone Figures. — Pyrami- 

 dal Structures. — An Arch. — A Stucco Ornament. — A Wooden Lintel. — A cu- 

 rious Cave. — Buildings, &c— A Causeway. — More Ruins. —Journey to Pa- 

 lenque.— Rio Grande. — Cascades. — Succession of Villages. — A Maniac— The 

 Yahalon— Tumbala.— A wild Place.— A Scene of Grandeur and Sublimity.— 

 Indian Carriers. — A steep Mountain. — San Pedro 255 



CHAPTER XVI. 



A wild Country. — Ascent of a Mountain. — Ride in a Silla. — A precarious Situa- 

 tion. — The Descent.— Rancho of Nopa. — Attacks of Moschetoes. — Approach 

 to Palenque.— Pasture Grounds.— Village of Palenque.— A crusty Official.— A 



