72 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



their backs, and women with packages and bundles in 

 their hands, and hurrying children before them. The 

 moon was beaming with unrivalled splendour ; the 

 women did not scream, the children did not cry ; ter- 

 ror was in every face and movement, but too deep for 

 utterance. I walked down to the church ; the cura 

 was at the altar, receiving hurried confessions and ad- 

 ministering the sacrament ; and as the wretched inhab- 

 itants left the altar they fled from the town. I saw a 

 poor mother searching for a missing child ; but her 

 friends, in hoarse whispers, said, " La gente vienne !" 

 and hurried her away. A long line of fugitives, with 

 loaded mules interspersed, was moving from the door 

 of the church, and disappearing beneath the brow of 

 the hill. It was the first time I ever saw terror operating 

 upon masses, and I hope never to see it again. I went 

 back to the house. The family of Padilla had not left, 

 and the poor widow was still packing up. We urged 

 Colonel Molina to hasten ; as commandant, he would 

 be the first victim. He knew his danger, but in a tone 

 of voice that told the horrors of this partisan war, said 

 he could not leave behind him the young women. In 

 a few moments all was ready ; the old lady gave us the 

 key of the house, we exchanged the Spanish farewell 

 with a mutual recommendation to God, and sadly and 

 silently they left the town. Colonel Molina remained 

 a moment behind. Again he urged us to fly, saying 

 that the enemy were robbers, murderers, and assassins, 

 who would pay no respect to person or character, and 

 disappointment at finding the town deserted would 

 make them outrageous with us. He drove his spurs 

 into his horse, and we never saw him again. On the 

 steps of the church were sick and infirm old men and 

 children, and the cura's house was thronged with the 



