132 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



mention that we wanted four iron chains for trunks, but 

 could only get two, for every blacksmith in the place 

 was making chains for the prisoners. In a week from 

 the time of my arrival everything was ready for our de- 

 parture. We provided ourselves with all the facilities 

 and safeguards that could be procured. Besides pass- 

 ports, the government furnished us special letters of rec- 

 ommendation to all the corregidors ; a flattering notice 

 appeared in the government paper, El Tiempo, men- 

 tioning my travels through the provinces and my intend- 

 ed route, and recommending me to hospitality ; and, 

 upon the strength of the letter of the Archbishop of Bal- 

 timore, the venerable provesor gave me a letter of rec- 

 ommendation to all the curas under his charge. But 

 these were not enough ; Carrera's name was worth more 

 than them all, and we waited two days for his return 

 from Quezaltenango. On the sixth of April, early in 

 the morning, he entered the city. At about nine o'clock 

 I called at his house, and was informed that he was in 

 bed, had ridden all night, and would not rise till the af- 

 ternoon. The rumour of the atrocity committed at that 

 place was confirmed. 



After dinner, in company with Mr. Savage, I made 

 my last stroll in the suburbs of the city. I never felt, as 

 at that moment, its exceeding beauty of position, and 

 for the third time I visited the hospital and cemetery of 

 San Juan de Dios. In front was the hospital, a noble 

 structure, formerly a convent, supported principally by 

 the active charity of Don Mariano Aycinena. In the 

 centre of the courtyard was a fine fountain, and beyond 

 it the cemetery, which was established at the time of the 

 cholera. The entrance was by a broad passage with a 

 high wall on each side, intended for the burial of " her- 



