CEREMONIES OF GOOD FRIDAY. 211 



long poles horizontally, to keep the crowd from pressing 

 upon it, and followed by a procession of townsmen. In 

 turning the corner of the street at which we stood, a 

 dark Mestitzo, with a scowl of fanaticism on his face, 

 said to Mr. Catherwood, " Take off your spectacles and 

 follow the cross." Next followed a procession of wo- 

 men with children in their arms, half of them asleep, 

 fancifully dressed with silver caps and headdresses, and 

 finally a large statue of the Virgin, in a sitting posture, 

 magnificently attired, with Indian lads on each side, as 

 before, supporting poles with candles. The whole was 

 accompanied with the music of drums and violins ; and, 

 as the long train of light passed down the street, we 

 returned to the convent. 



The night was very cold, and the next morning was 

 like one in December at home. It was the morning of 

 Good Friday ; and throughout Guatimala, in every vil- 

 lage, preparations were making to celebrate, with the 

 most solemn ceremonies of the Church, the resurrection 

 of the Saviour. In Quezaltenango, at that early hour, 

 the plaza was thronged with Indians from the country 

 around ; but the whites, terrified and grieving at the 

 murder of their best men, avoided, to a great extent, 

 taking part in the celebration. 



At nine o'clock the corregidor called for us, and we 

 accompanied him to the opening ceremony. On one 

 side of the nave of the church, near the grand altar, 

 and opposite the pulpit, were high cushioned chairs for 

 the corregidor and members of the municipality, and 

 we had seats with them. The church was thronged 

 with Indians, estimated at more than three thousand. 

 Formerly, at this ceremony no women or children were 

 admitted ; but now the floor of the church was filled 

 with Indian women on their knees, with red cords 



