AFFLICTIONS OF A CUR A. 217 



in a full length case of plate glass, strewed with roses 

 inside and out, and protected by a mourning canopy of 

 black cloth, supported by men in long black gowns, with 

 hoods covering all but the eyes. This was followed by 

 the cura and priests in their richest robes and barehead- 

 ed, the muffled drum, and soldiers with arms reversed; 

 the Virgin Mary, in a long black mourning dress, closed 

 the procession. It passed on to make the tour of the 

 city ; twice we intercepted it, and then went to the 

 Church of El Calvario. It stands on an elevation at the 

 extreme end of a long street, and the steps were already 

 crowded with women dressed in white from the head 

 to the feet, with barely an oval opening for the face. 

 It was dark when the procession made its appearance 

 at the foot of the street, but by the blaze of innumera- 

 ble lighted candles every object was exhibited with 

 more striking wildness, and fanaticism seemed written 

 in letters of fire on the faces of the Indians. The cen- 

 turion cleared a way up the steps ; the procession, with 

 a loud chant, entered the church, and we went away. 



In the evening we made several visits, and late at 

 night we were called to a conference by some friends 

 of the cura, and on his behalf. His troubles were not 

 yet over. On the day of our arrival he had received a 

 peremptory order from the provesor to repair to Gua- 

 temala, with notice that " some proper person" would 

 be appointed in his place. We knew that the terms of 

 the order afflicted the cura, for they implied that he 

 was not a proper person. All Quezaltenango, he said, 

 could answer for his acts, and he could answer to God 

 that his motives were only to prevent the effusion of 

 blood. His house was all in confusion ; he was pack- 

 ing up his books and furniture, and preparing to obey 

 the provesor's order. But his friends considered that 



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