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THE SIERRA MADRE. 233 



crossed the sierra. The ridge of the mountain was a 

 long level table about half a mile wide, with rugged 

 sides rising on the right to a terrific peak. Riding 

 about half an hour on this table, by the side of a stream of 

 clear and cold water, which passed on, carrying its trib- 

 ute to the Pacifier Ocean, we reached a miserable rancho, 

 in front of which the arriero proposed to encamp, as he 

 said it would be impossible to reach the next village. 

 At a distance it was a glorious idea, that of sleeping on 

 the top of the Sierra Madre, and the scene was wild 

 enough for the most romantic imagination ; but, being 

 poorly provided against cold, we would have gladly ex- 

 changed it for an Indian village. 



The occupants of the hut were a man and woman, 

 who lived there rent free. Like the eagle, they had 

 fixed their habitation where they were not likely to be 

 disturbed. While the men were unloading, Juan, as 

 an invalid, asked permission to stretch his huge body 

 before the fire, but the woman told him there was more 

 room out of doors. I succeeded, however, in securing 

 him a place inside. We had an hour to wander over 

 the top of the sierra. It belonged to our friend Don 

 Joaquim Monte, and was what would be called at home 

 a pretty substantial piece of fast property. At every step 

 there was some new opening, which presented a new 

 view of the grand and magnificent in nature. In many 

 places, between cliffs and under certain exposures, were 

 fine pieces of ground, and about half a mile distant a 

 potrero or pasture-ground for brood mares, which we 

 visited to buy some corn for our mules. A vicious jack 

 reigned lord of the sierra. 



Adjoining the occupied hut was another about ten 

 feet square, made of small upright poles, thatched with 

 branches of cypress, and open on all sides to the wind. 



Vol. II.— G g 



