274 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



the mountain. It was very hot, and I can give no idea 

 of the toil of ascending these mountains. Our mules 

 could barely clamber up with their saddles only. We 

 disencumbered ourselves of sword, spurs, and all use- 

 less trappings ; in fact, came down to shirt and panta- 

 loons, and as near the condition of the Indians as we 

 could. Our procession would have been a spectacle in 

 Broadway. First were four Indians, each with a rough 

 oxhide box, secured by an iron chain and large padlock, 

 on his back ; then Juan, with only a hat and pair of 

 thin cotton drawers, driving two spare mules, and car- 

 rying a double-barrelled gun over his naked shoulders.; 

 then ourselves, each one driving before him or leading 

 his own mule ; then an Indian carrying the silla, with 

 relief carriers, and several boys bearing small bags of 

 provisions, the Indians of the silla being much surprised 

 at our not using them according to contract and the 

 price paid. Though toiling excessively, we felt a sense 

 of degradation at being carried on a man's shoulders. 

 At that time I was in the worst condition of the three, 

 and the night before had gone to bed at San Pedro 

 without supper, which for any of us was sure evidence 

 of being in a bad way. 



We had brought the silla with us merely as a meas- 

 ure of precaution, with much expectation of being 

 obliged to use it ; but at a steep pitch, which made my 

 head almost burst to think of climbing, I resorted to it 

 for the first time. It was a large, clumsy armchair, put 

 together with wooden pins and bark strings. The In- 

 dian who was to carry me, like all the others, was small, 

 not more than five feet seven, very thin, but symmetri- 

 cally formed. A bark strap was tied to the arms of 

 the chair, and, sitting down, he placed his back against 

 the back of the chair, adjusted the length of the strings, 



