284 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



The house assigned to us by the alcalde was next his 

 own, and belonged to himself. It had a cucinera ad- 

 joining, and two Indian women, who did not dare look 

 at us without permission from the alcalde. It had an 

 earthen floor, three beds made of reeds, and a thatched 

 roof, very good, except that over two of the beds it 

 leaked. Under the peaked roof and across the top of 

 the mud walls there was a floor made of poles, serving 

 as a granary for the alcalde's mouldy corn, inhabited 

 by industrious mice, which scratched, nibbled, squeak- 

 ed, and sprinkled dust upon us all night. Neverthe- 

 less, we had reached Palenque, and slept well. 



The next day was Sunday, and we hailed it as a 

 day of rest. Heretofore, in all my travels, I had endeav- 

 oured to keep it as such, but in this country I had found 

 it impossible. The place was so tranquil, and seemed 

 in such a state of repose, that as the old alcalde passed 

 the door we ventured to wish him a good-morning ; 

 but again he had got up wrong ; and, without answering 

 our greeting, stopped to tell us that pur mules were 

 missing, and, as this did not disturb us sufficiently, he 

 added that they were probably stolen ; but when he 

 had got us fairly roused and on the point of setting off 

 to look for them, he said there was no danger ; they 

 had only gone for water, and would return of them- 

 selves. 



The village of Palenque, as we learned from the pre- 

 feto, was once a place of considerable importance, all 

 the goods imported for Guatimala passing through it ; 

 but Balize had diverted that trade and destroyed its 

 commerce, and but a few years before more than half 

 the population had been swept off by the cholera. 

 Whole families had perished, and their houses were 

 desolate and falling to ruins. The church stood at the 



