376 



INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL. 



of the noble Usumasinta, our situation was pleasant and 

 exciting. A strong wind sweeping down the river 

 drove away the moschetoes, and there were no gather- 

 ing clouds to indicate rain. We had expected to come 

 to for the night, but the evening was so clear that we 

 determined to continue. Unfortunately, we were obli- 

 ged to leave the Usumasinta, and, about an hour after 

 dark, turned to the north into the Rio Palisada. The 

 whole great plain from Palenque to the Gulf of Mexico 

 is broken by creeks and streams. The Usumasinta in 

 its stately course receives many, and sends off others to 

 find their way by other channels to the sea. 



Leaving the broad expanse of the Usumasinta, with 

 its comparative light, the Rio Palisada, narrow, and with 

 a dark line of forest on each side, had an aspect 

 fearfully ominous of moschetoes. Unfortunately, at the 

 very beginning we brushed against the bank, and took 

 on board enough to show us the bloodthirsty character of 

 the natives. Of course that night afforded us little sleep. 



At daylight we were still dropping down the river. 

 This was the region of the great logwood country. We 

 met a large bungo with two masts moving against the 

 stream, set up by hauling and pushing on the branch- 

 es of trees, on her way for a cargo. As we advanced, 

 the banks of the river in some places were cleared and 

 cultivated, and had whitewashed houses, and small su- 

 gar-mills turned by oxen, and canoes were lying on the 

 water ; altogether the scene was pretty, but with the 

 richness of the soil suggesting the idea how beautiful 

 this country might be made. 



At two o'clock we reached the Palisada, situated on 

 the left bank of the river, on a luxuriant plain elevated 

 some fifteen or twenty feet. Several bungoes lay along 

 the bank, and in front was a long street, with large and 

 well-built houses. This, our first point, was in the 



