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beautiful scenes, from beginning to end. Instantly on 

 leaving " the Gutturs," we began to ascend the 

 May-day Mountains, and it was not till after travel- 

 ling for five and twenty miles, that we found our- 

 selves at the foot of them on the other side, at a place 

 called William sfield, about twelve miles from the 

 toll-house, where we rested for the night. To be 

 sure, the road was so rough, that it was enough 

 to make one envy the Mahometan women, who, 

 having no souls at all, could not possibly have them 

 jolted out of their bodies ; but the beauty of the 

 scenery amply rewarded us for our bruised sides 

 and battered backs. The road was, for the most 

 part, bounded by lofty rocks on one side, and a 

 deep precipice on the other, and bordered with a 

 profusion of noble trees and flowering shrubs in 

 great variety. In particular, I was struck with the 

 picturesque appearance of some wild fig-trees of 

 singular size and beauty. Although there were 

 only two of us, besides servants, we found it neces- 

 sary to employ seven horses and a couple of mules ; 

 and, as our cavalcade wound along through the 

 mountains, the Spanish look of our sumpter-mules, 

 and of our kittereens (which are precisely the 

 vehicle in which Gil Bias is always represented 

 when travelling with Scipio towards Lirias) gave 

 us quite the appearance of a caravan ; nor should I 

 have been greatly surprised to see a trap-door open 

 in the middle of the road, and Captain Rolando's 

 whiskers make their appearance. Every one spoke 



