94 



THE TOCANTINS 



these places for receiving the pulp before the poisonous 

 matter is extracted, stood on the ground, and from the 

 posts hung the long wicker-work baskets, or aturas, in 

 which the women carry the roots from the roga or clearing ; 

 a broad ribbon made from the inner bark of the monguba 

 tree is attached to the rims of the baskets, and is passed 

 round the forehead of the carriers, to relieve their backs 

 in supporting the heavy load. Around the shed were 

 planted a number of banana and other fruit trees ; 

 amongst them were the never-failing capsicum-pepper 

 bushes brilliant as holly-trees at Christmas time with 

 their fiery red fruit, and lemon trees ; the one supplying 

 the pungent the other the acid for sauce to the perpetual 

 meal of fish. There is never in such places any appear- 

 ance of careful cultivation, no garden or orchard ; the 

 useful trees are surrounded by weeds and bushes, and 

 close behind rises the everlasting forest. 



There were other strangers under Senhor Joaquim's 

 roof besides myself ; mulattos, mamelucos, and Indians, 

 so we formed altogether a large party. Houses occur 

 at rare intervals in this wild country, and hospitality is 

 freely given to the few passing travellers. After a frugal 

 supper, a large wood fire was lighted in the middle of the 

 shed, and all turned into their hammocks and began to 

 converse. A few of the party soon dropped asleep ; 

 others, however, kept awake until a very late hour telling 

 stories. Some related adventures which had happened 

 to them whilst hunting or fishing ; others recounted 

 myths about the Curupira, and other demons or spirits 

 of the forest. They were all very appropriate to the 

 time and place, for now and then a yell or a shriek re- 

 sounded through the gloomy wilderness around the shed. 

 One old parchment-faced fellow, with a skin the colour 

 of mahogany, seemed to be a capital story-teller ; but I 

 was sorry I did not know enough of the language to 

 follow him in all the details which he gave. Amongst 

 other things he related an adventure he had once had 

 with a jaguar. He got up from his hammock in the 

 course of the narrative to give it the greater effect by 

 means of gestures ; he seized a bow and a large taquara 

 arrow to show how he slew the beast, imitated its hoarse 

 growl, and danced about the fire like a demon. 



In descending the river we landed frequently, and 

 Mr. Wallace and I lost no chance of adding to our col- 



