RETURN TO PARA 



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a ruffle had never disturbed air, forest or river. The 

 boat sped along Hke an arrow to the rhythmic paddHng 

 of the four stout youths we had with us, who enUvened 

 the passage with their wild songs. Mr. Patchett and I 

 tried to get a little sleep, but the cabin was so small and 

 encumbered with boxes placed at all sorts of angles, 

 that we found sleep impossible. I was just dozing when 

 the day dawned, and, on awaking, the first object I saw 

 was the Santa Rosa, at anchor under a green island in 

 mid-river. I preferred to make the remainder of the 

 voyage in the company of my collections, so bade Mr. 

 Patchett good-day. The owner of the Santa Rosa, 

 Senhor Jacinto Machado, whom I had not seen before, 

 received me aboard, and apologized for having started 

 without me. He was a white man, a planter, and was 

 now taking his year's produce of cacao, about twenty 

 tons, to Para. The canoe was very heavily laden, and 

 I was rather alarmed to see that it was leaking at all 

 points. The crew were all in the water diving about 

 to feel for the holes, which they stopped with pieces of 

 rag and clay, and an old negro was baling the water out 

 of the hold. This was a pleasant prospect for a three 

 days' voyage ! Senhor Machado treated it as the most 

 ordinary incident possible. * It was always likely to 

 leak, for it was an old vessel that had been left as worth- 

 less high and dry on the beach, and he had bought it 

 very cheap.' 



When the leaks were stopped, we proceeded on our 

 journey, and at night reached the mouth of the Anapu. 

 I wrapped myself up in an old sail, and fell asleep on 

 the raised deck. The next day we threaded the Igarape- 

 mirim, and on the 19th descended the Moju. Senhor 

 Machado and I by this time had become very good 

 friends. At every interesting spot on the banks of the 

 Moju, he manned the small boat and took me ashore. 

 There are many large houses on this river belonging to 

 what were formerly large and flourishing plantations. 

 Since the revolution of 1835-6, they had been suffered 

 to go to decay. Two of the largest buildings were con- 

 structed by the Jesuits in the early part of the last century. 

 We were told that there were formerly eleven large sugar- 

 mills on the banks of the Moju, but now there are only 

 three. At Burujuba, there is a large monastery in a 

 state of decay ; part of the edifice, however, was in- 



