352 



THE UPPER AMAZONS 



Quary, or the channel which connects the lake with the 

 Solimoens, is only 200 of 300 yards broad, and has but a 

 very feeble current. It is about half a mile long, and 

 opens on a broad sheet of water which is not of imposing 

 magnitude, as it is only a small portion of the lake, this 

 having a rather sharp bend in its lower part, so that the 

 whole extent is not visible at one view. There is a small 

 village on the shores of the inner water, distant twelve 

 hours' journey by boat from the entrance. We anchored 

 within the mouth, and visited in the montaria two or 

 three settlers, whose houses are built in picturesque situa- 

 tions on the banks of the lower lake not far inwards. 

 Several small but navigable streams or inlets here fall into 

 the Quary ; the land appeared to be of the highest fer- 

 tility ; we crossed a neck of land on foot, from one inlet to 

 another, passing through extensive groves of coffee, 

 planted in a loose manner amongst the forest trees. One 

 of the settlers was a Gibraltar Jew, established here many 

 years, and thoroughly reconciled to the ways of life of the 

 semi-civilized inhabitants. We found him barefoot, with 

 trousers turned up to the knee, busily employed with a 

 number of Indians — men, women, and children — shelling 

 and drying cacao, which grows wild in immense profusion 

 in the neighbourhood. He seemed a lively and sensible 

 fellow ; was a great admirer of the country, the climate, 

 and the people, and had no desire to return to Europe. 

 This was the only Jew I met with on the upper river ; 

 there are several settled at Santarem, Cameta, and Para, 

 where, on account of their dealings being fairer than those 

 of Portuguese traders, they do a good trade, and live on 

 friendly terms with the Brazilians. 



Our object here was to purchase a supply of fresh 

 farinha and anything else we could find in the way of 

 provisions, as our farinha had become rotten and unfit 

 to eat, and we had been on short rations for several days. 

 We got all we wanted except sugar ; not a pound of this 

 article of luxury was to be had, and we were obliged 

 henceforward to sweeten our coffee with treacle, as is the 

 general custom in this part of Brazil. 



We left Quary before sunrise on the 20th. On the 22nd 

 we threaded the Parana-mirim of Arauana-i, one of the 

 numerous narrow by-waters which lie conveniently for 

 canoes away from the main river, and often save a con- 

 siderable circuit round a promontory or island. We rowed 



