43^ EXCURSIONS AROUND EGA 



with a whitewashed house, in the middle of a green 

 patch of clearing, belonging to settlers. In striking con- 

 trast to these dark, rolling forests is the vivid, light-green 

 and cheerful foliage of the woods on the numerous islets 

 which rest like water-gardens on the surface of the lake. 

 Flocks of ducks, storks, and snow-white herons inhabit 

 these islets, and a noise of parrots with the tingling 

 chorus of Tamburi-paras was heard from them as we 

 passed. This has a cheering effect after the depressing 

 stillness and absence of life in the woods on the margins 

 of the main river. 



Cardozo and I with two Indians took a small canoe 

 and crossed the lake on a visit to Senhor Caspar Jose 

 Rodriguez, a well-to-do farmer, and the principal resident 

 of Cayambe. His eldest daughter, a home-loving, in- 

 dustrious girl, had married the Portuguese Miguel, my 

 old travelling companion, a few days before we left Ega 

 on these rambles. We had attended and danced at the 

 wedding, and this present visit was in fulfilment of a 

 promise to call on the family whenever we should be near 

 Cayambe. Senhor Caspar was one of those numerous 

 half-caste proprietors, a few of whom I have had occasion 

 to mention, who by their industrious, regular habits, 

 good sense, and fair dealing, do credit to the class to 

 which they belong. We have heard so much in England 

 of the worthlessness of the half-caste population of 

 Tropical America that it is a real pleasure to be able to 

 bear witness that they are not wholly bad. It is, how- 

 ever, in retired country districts where I have chiefly 

 mixed with them. Some of them, such as the friend of 

 whom I am speaking, are, considering their defective 

 education, as worthy men as can be found in any country. 

 There is however, it must be confessed, a considerable 

 number of superlatively lazy, tricky, and sensual char- 

 acters amongst the half-castes, both in rural places and 

 in the towns. I found the establishment of Senhor 

 Caspar similar to that of Joao Trinidade which I have 

 before described, opposite to the mouth of the Madeira. 

 It was situated on a high bank : the dwelling-house was 

 large and airy, but roughly built, and with unplastered 

 mud-walls. There was a considerable number of out- 

 houses, and in the rear, extensive orchards of fruit and 

 coffee trees, with paths through them leading to the 

 mandioca plantations. Senhor Miguel, with his wife, 



