496 EXCURSIONS BEYOND EGA 



line, from Ega, or about 400 miles following the bends of 

 the river. 



The waters were now nearly at their lowest point ; 

 but this made no difference to the rate of travelling, 

 night or day. Several of the Parana mirims, or by- 

 channels, which the steamer threads in the season of 

 full-water, to save a long circuit, were now dried up, 

 their empty beds looking like deep sandy ravines in 

 the midst of the thick forest. The large sand-islands, 

 and miles of sandy beach, were also uncovered, and these, 

 with the swarms of large aquatic birds, storks, herons, 

 ducks, waders, and spoon-bills, which lined their margins 

 in certain places, made the river view much more varied 

 and animated than it is in the season of the flood. Alli- 

 gators of large size were common near the shores, lazily 

 floating, and heedless of the passing steamer. The 

 passengers amused themselves by shooting at them from 

 the deck with a double-barrelled rifle we had on board. 

 The sign of a mortal hit was the monster turning suddenly 

 over, and remaining floating, with its white belly up- 

 wards. Lieutenant Nunes wished to have one of the dead 

 animals on board, for the purpose of opening the abdomen, 

 and, if a male, extracting a part which is held in great 

 estimation amongst Brazilians as a ' remedio charm, or 

 medicine. The steamer was stopped, and a boat sent, 

 with four strong men, to embark the beast ; the body, 

 however, was found too heavy to be lifted into the boat ; 

 so a rope was passed round it, and the hideous creature 

 towed alongside, and hoisted on deck by means of the 

 crane, which was rigged for the purpose. It had still 

 some sparks of life, and when the knife was applied, 

 lashed its tail, and opened its enormous jaws, sending 

 the crowd of bystanders flying in all directions. A blow 

 with a hatchet on the crown of the head, gave him his 

 quietus at last. The length of the animal was fifteen 

 feet ; but this statement can give but an imperfect idea 

 of its immense bulk and weight. The numbers of turtles 

 which were seen swimming in quiet shoaly bays passed 

 on the road, also gave us much amusement. They were 

 seen by dozens ahead, with their snouts peering above the 

 surface of the water ; and, on the steamer approaching, turn- 

 ing round to stare, but not losing confidence, till the vessel 

 had nearly passed, when they appeared to be suddenly 

 smitten with distrust, diving like ducks under the stream. 



