498 EXCURSIONS BEYOND EGA 



rear, intercepting the view of the northern mainland, 

 and sometimes also of the southern. Beyond the Issa, 

 however, the river becomes evidently narrower, being 

 reduced to an average width of about a mile ; there were 

 then no longer those magnificent reaches, with blank 

 horizons, which occur lower down. We had a dark and 

 rainy night after passing Tunantins, and the passengers 

 were all very uneasy on account of the speed at which 

 we were travelling, twelve miles an hour, with every 

 plank vibrating with the force of the engines. Many of 

 them could not sleep, myself amongst the number. At 

 length, a little after midnight, a sudden shout startled us ; 

 * back her ! ' (English terms being used in matters re- 

 lating to steam-engines). The pilot instantly sprung to 

 the helm, and in a few moments we felt our paddle-box 

 brushing again the wall of forest into which we had 

 nearly driven headlong. Fortunately the water was deep 

 close up to the bank. Early in the morning of the loth 

 of September we anchored in the port of St. Paulo, after 

 five days' quick travelling from Ega. 



St. Paulo is built on a high hill, on the southern bank 

 of the river. The hill is formed of the same Tabatinga 

 clay, which occurs at intervals over the whole valley of 

 the Amazons, but nowhere rises to so great an elevation 

 as here, the height being about loo feet above the mean 

 level of the river. The ascent from the port is steep and 

 slippery ; steps and resting-places have been made to 

 lighten the fatigue of mounting, otherwise the village 

 would be almost inaccessible, especially to porters of 

 luggage and cargo, for there are no means of making a 

 circuitous road of more moderate slope, the hill being 

 steep on all sides, and surrounded by dense forests and 

 swamps. The place contains about 500 inhabitants, 

 chiefly half-castes and Indians of the Tucuna and Collina 

 tribes, who are very little improved from their primitive 

 state. The streets are narrow, and in rainy weather 

 inches deep in mud ; many houses are of substantial 

 structure, but in a ruinous condition, and the place al- 

 together presents the appearance, like Fonte Boa, of 

 having seen better days. Signs of commerce, such as 

 meet the eye at Ega, could scarcely be expected in this 

 remote spot, situate 1800 miles, or seven months' round 

 voyage by sailing-vessels, from Para, the nearest market 

 for produce. A very short experience showed that the 



