J. M. Thorbukn & Cu.'s Catalogue of Seeds. 



3 



straight lines. Larger crops from a given surface are grown in this way, and cultivation becomes simple 

 and comparatively easy. The space between the drills, and other special information, is given in the body of 

 the catalogue ; the least distance is named, in order to economize space — it might be increased in some cases 

 with advantage. 



The ground should be frequently hoed to kill the weeds and keep the soil mellow ; and the proper 

 time to hoe is just when the weeds appear above ground. Briefly, the proper way to kill weeds is never 

 to let them grow. If the weeding be done at the time suggested, it can be mostly and quickly done by the 

 use of a sharp-toothed steel rake. 



Where the material and conveniences are at hand, much time may be gained by starting certain kinds 

 of plant in a hot-bed, or even in a cold-frame, the latter being a very convenient thing, even on a small place. 

 The hot-bed is chiefly intended for raising early Tomatoes, Egg-Plants, Peppers, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Let- 

 tuce, etc. ; but as all these plants can now be bought cheaply of the seedsmen at the proper time, the expense 

 and labor of a hot-bed can, in many cases, be dispensed with, especially on small places. 



The above brief suggestions, and the special directions dispersed through the catalogue, if carefully 

 observed, will go far toward securing early and abundant crops. 



To Prepare a Cold-Frame. — The cold-frame is simply a frame set on the ground, no bottom heat be- 

 ing applied. It is banked up on the outside during the winter with salt hay, straw, or coarse litter. The 

 soil is prepared by forking in and thoroughly mixing to the depth of ten or twelve inches a liberal quantity 

 of old, well-rotted manure. The manure of an old hot-bed is good for the purpose. The frame is prepared 

 in the fall, and young Cabbage, Cauliflower, and Lettuce plants set out in it in time to get w-11 established 

 before very cold weather. Cauliflower and Cabbage should be set down to the first leaf, and the soil made 

 firm around the plants. The seed is usually sown, in the vicinity of New York, from the 15th to the 20th of 

 September, but the very early kinds some eight or ten days later. The young plants will be ready to trans- 

 plant in about twenty-five or thirty days. During cold nights and stormy days, the beds should be closely 

 covered with the sashes, and these further protected by straw mats or shutters. Cauliflower needs more and 

 closer protection than Cabbage, as it is rather more tender. During mild days admit air freely, the object 

 being to keep the plants in a dormant state, without actual freezing, so that when spring comes the plants 

 are in a forward state for setting out early crops. Seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Radish may 

 be sown in a cold-frame in the spring from the last week in February to the first week in March. The frame 

 should stand in a warm and sheltered spot, and be kept from freezing by mats or a thick covering of straw 

 during cold nights. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A HOT-BED. 



In the vicinity of New York, from the first to the middle of March is quite early enough to make a hot- 

 bed, and even a little later will do well enough. The time must vary according to the latitude. Provide a 

 quantity of fresh horse manure from the stables, and add to this, if they can be had, one-third to one-half of 

 its bulk of leaves. Mix them thoroughly, tramping down the mass in successive layers, and form into a 

 large pile, so that fermentation will proceed even in severe cold weather. In two or three days fermenta- 

 tion will be apparent by the escape of steam from the heap. Now turn again, and allow the heap to re- 

 main two or three days longer, or until the second fermentation commences. Make an excavation, or pit. 

 two-and-a-half feet deep, and of a size suited to the number of plants required. The pit wall be better if 

 built up of brick It should be made in some dry, sheltered spot, facing the south or east if possible. Hot- 

 bed sashes are usually 6x3 feet, and one sash will generally give early plants enough for a large family. 

 The frame for sashes should be eighteen inches high at the back and twelve inches in front, which will give 

 the proper slope to catch the sunlight. Cross-pieces should be placed for the sashes to slide on, to facili- 

 tate opening and shutting the frames. When everything is ready, the manure is placed in the pit and 

 trodden down firmly in layers to the required depth, two to two-and-a-half feet. Then put on the sashes, 

 and keep the pit closed until the heat rises. At first it will probably be ioo° or more, which is too hot to sow 

 the seed in ; but in two or three days it will subside to qo° or a little less, when the soil may be put on to the 

 depth of six to eight inches. The heat may be readily ascertained by plunging a thermometer in the ma- 

 nure. The soil should be of well-rotted sod (or common garden soil will do) mixed with about a third of 

 fine, old manure, and in this the seeds may be sown thinly in drills two or three inches apart, and afterwards 

 (as soon as out of the seed-leaf ) either thinned out or else transplanted to another frame. Air must be given 

 every mild day by raising the sashes at the back. Water with tepid water whenever necessary, and during 

 cold nights and snow storms keep covered with straw mats or board shutters. Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg 

 Plants should be sown in a separate frame from the Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce, as they require 

 more heat than the latter. The same directions may apply to hot-beds made on the surface of the ground, 

 except that the manure should be at least a foot wider on all sides than the frame. 



