Catalogue of High-Class Sheds. 



3 



and comparatively easy. The space between the drills, and other special information, is given in the body 

 of the catalogue ; the least distance is named, in order to economize space ; it might be increased in some 

 cases with advantage. 



The ground should be frequently hoed to kill the weeds and keep the soil mellow ; and the proper time 

 to hoe is just when the weeds appear above ground. Briefly, the proper way to kill weeds is never to let 

 them grow. If the weeding be done at the time suggested, it can be mostly and quickly done by the use of 

 a sharp-toothed steel rake. 



Where the material and conveniences are at hand, much time may be gained by starting certain kinds 

 of plants in a hot-bed, or even in a cold-frame, the latter being a very convenient thing, even on a small 

 place. The hot-bed is chiefly intended for raising early Tomatoes, Egg-Plants, Peppers, Cabbage, Cauli- 

 flower, Lettuce, etc. , but as all these plants can now be bought cheaply of the seedsmen at the proper time, 

 the expense and labor of a hot-bed can, in many cases, be dispensed with, especially on small places. 



The above brief suggestions, and the special directions dispersed through the catalogue, if carefully 

 observed, will go far toward securing early and abundant crops. 



To Prepare a Cold-Frame. — The cold-frame is simply a frame set on the ground, no bottom heat being 

 applied. It is banked up on the outside during the winter with salt hay, straw or coarse litter. The soil 

 is prepared by forking in and thoroughly mixing to the depth of ten or twelve inches a liberal quantity of 

 old, well-rotted manure. The manure of an old hot-bed is good for the purpose. The frame is prepared 

 in the fall, and young Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants are set out in it in time to get well established 

 before very cold weather. Cauliflower and Cabbage should be set down to the first leaf, and the soil made 

 firm around the plants. The seed is usually sown, in the vicinity of New York, from the 15th to the 20th 

 of September, but the very early kinds some eight or ten days later. The young plants will be ready to 

 transplant in about twenty-five or thirty days. During cold nights and stormy days, the beds should be 

 closely covered with the sashes, and these further protected by straw mats or shutters. Cauliflower needs 

 more and closer protection than Cabbage, as it is rather more tender. During mild days admit air freely, 

 the object being to keep the plants in a dormant state, without actual freezing, so that when spring comes 

 the plants are in a forward state for setting out early crops. Seeds of Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and 

 Radish may be sown in a cold-frame in the spring from the last week in February to the first week in March. 

 The frame should stand in a warm and sheltered spot, and be kept from freezing by mats or a thick covering 

 of straw during cold nights. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A HOT-BED. 



In the vicinity of New York, from the first to the middle of March is quite early enough to make a 

 hot-bed, and even a little later will do well enough. The time must vary according to the latitude. Pro- 

 vide a quantity of fresh horse-manure from the stables, and add to this, if they can be had, one-third to 

 one-half of its bulk of leaves. Mix them thoroughly, tramping down the mass in successive layers, and 

 form into a large pile, so that fermentation will proceed even in severely cold weather. In two or three 

 days fermentation will be apparent by the escape of steam from the heap. Now turn again, and allow the 

 heap to remain two or three days longer, or until the second fermentation commences. Make an excavation 

 or pit two-and-a-half feet deep, and of a size suited to the number of plants required. The pit will be 

 better if built up of brick. It should be made in some dry, sheltered spot, facing the south or east, if 

 pjssible. Hot-bed sashes are usually 6x3 feet, and one sash will generally give early plants enough for a 

 1 irge family. The frame for sashes should be eighteen inches high at the back and twelve inches in front, 

 which will give the proper slope to catch the sunlight. Cross-pieces should be placed for the sashes to 

 slide on, to facilitate opening and shutting the frames. When everything is ready, the manure is placed in 

 the pit and trodden down firmly in layers to the required depth, two to two-and-a-half feet. Then put on 

 the sashes, and keep the pit closed until the heat rises. At first it will probably be ioo° or more, which is 

 too hot to sow the seed in ; but in two or three days it will subside to 90 0 or a little less, when the soil may 

 be put on to the depth of six to eight inches. The heat may be readily ascertained by plunging a thermom- 

 eter in the manure. The soil should be of well-rotted sod (or common garden soil will do), mixed with 

 about a third of fine, old manure, and in this the seeds may be sown thinly in drills two or three inches 

 apart, and afterwards (as soon as out of the seed-leaf) either thinned out or else transplanted to another 

 frame. Air must be given every mild day by raising the sashes at the back. Water with tepid water 

 whenever necessary, and during cold nights and snow storms keep covered with straw mats or board 

 shutters. Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg-Plants should be sown in a separate frame from the Cabbage, 

 Cauliflower and Lettuce, as they require more heat than the latter. The same directions may apply to 

 hct-beds made on tke surface of the ground, except that the manure should be at least a foot wider on 

 all sides than the frame. 



