Catalogue of High-Class Seeds. 



3 



"be warmed up by a liberal coat of manure, which should be thoroughly mixed with the soil. Grow 

 everything in drills or straight lines. Larger crops from a given surface are grown in this way, and cul- 

 tivation becomes simple and comparatively easy. The space between the drills, and other special infor- 

 mation, is given in the body of the Catalogue-; the least distance is named, in order to economize space; 

 it might be increased in some cases with advantage. 



The ground should be frequently hoed, to kill the weeds and keep the soil mellow; and the 

 proper time to hoe is just when the weeds appear above ground. Briefly, the proper way to kill weeds is 

 never to let them grow. If the weeding be done at the time suggested, it can be mostly and quickly 

 done by the use of a sharp-toothed steel rake. 



Where the material and conveniences are at hand, much time may be gained by starting 

 certain kinds of plants in a hotbed, or even in a coldframe, the latter being a very convenient thing, even 

 on a small place. The hotbed is chiefly intended for raising early Tomatoes, Egg-plants, Peppers, Cab- 

 bage, Cauliflower, Lettuce, etc., but as all these plants can now be bought cheaply of the seedsmen at 

 the proper time, the expense and labor of a hotbed can, in many cases, be dispensed with, especially 

 on small places. 



To Prepare a Coldframe. — The coldframe is simply a frame set on the ground, no bottom 

 heat being applied. It is banked up on the outside during the winter with salt hay, straw or coarse 



I litter. The soil is prepared by forking in and thoroughly mixing to the depth of 10 or 12 inches a liberal 

 quantity of old, well -rotted manure. The manure of an old hotbed is good for the purpose. The frame 

 is prepared in the fall, and young Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce plants are set out in it in time to 

 get well established before very cold weather. Cauliflower and Cabbage should be set down to the first 

 leaf, and the soil made firm around the plants. The seed is usually sown, in the vicinity of New York, 

 from the 15th to the 20th of September, but the very early kinds some 8 or 10 days later. The 

 young plants will be ready to transplant in about 25 or 30 days. During cold nights and stormy 

 days, the beds should be closely covered with the sashes, and these further protected by straw mats or 

 shutters. Cauliflower needs more and closer protection than Cabbage, as it is rather more tender. Dur- 

 ing mild days admit air freely, the object being to keep the plants in a dormant state, without actual 

 freezing, so that when spring comes the plants are in a forward state for setting out early crops. Seeds 



!| af Cabbage, Cauliflower, Lettuce and Radish may be sown in a coldframe in the spring from the last 

 week in February to the first week in March. The frame should stand in a warm and sheltered spot, 

 and be kept from freezing by mats or a thick covering of straw during cold nights. 



DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING A HOTBED. 



In the vicinity of New York, from the first to the middle of March is quite early enough to make a 

 lotbed, and even a little later will do well enough. The time must vary according to the latitude. 

 Provide a quantity of fresh horse-manure from the stables, and add to this, if they can be had, one-third 

 bo one-half of its bulk of leaves. Mix them thoroughly, tramping down the mass in successive layers, 

 md form into a large pile, so that fermentation will proceed, even in severely cold weather. In two or 



I Jiree days fermentation will be apparent by the escape of steam from the heap. Now turn again, and 

 illow the heap to remain two or three days longer, or until the second fermentation commences. Make 

 in excavation or pit 2%. feet deep, and of a size suited to the number of plants required. The pit will be 

 Detter if built up of brick. It should be made in some dry, sheltered spot, facing the south or east, if 

 possible. Hotbed sashes are usually 6x3 feet, and one sash will generally give early plants enough for 

 i large family. The frame for sashes should be 18 inches high at the back and 12 inches in front, which 



j will give the proper slope to catch the sunlight. Cross-pieces should be placed for the sashes to slide 



! m, to facilitate opening and shutting the frames. When everything is ready, the manure is placed in 

 ,he pit and trodden down firmly in layers to the required depth, 2 to 2)4. feet. Then put on the sashes, 



jlind keep the pit closed until the heat rises. At first it will probably be 100° or more, which is too hot 

 ;o sow the seed in; but in two or three days it will subside to 90° or a little less, when the soil may be 

 rat on to the depth of 6 to 8 inches. The heat may be readily ascertained by plunging a thermometer 

 n the manure. The soil should be of well-rotted sod (or common garden soil will do), mixed with about 

 I third of fine, old manure, and in this the seeds may be sown thinly in drills 2 to 3 inches apart, and 

 tfterwards (as soon as out of the seed-leaf) either thinned out or else transplanted to another frame, 

 lir must be given every mild day by raising the sashes at the back. Water with tepid water whenever 

 lecessary, and during cold nights and snow storms keep covered with straw mats or board shutters. 

 Tomatoes, Peppers and Egg-plants should be sown in a separate frame from the Cabbage, Cauliflower 

 uid Lettuce, as they require more heat than the latter. The same directions may apply to hotbeds 

 nade on the surface of the ground, except that the manure should be at least a foot wider on all sides 

 han the frame. 



