SPECIAL TOPICS 



Lr» wr^ cr^ lti o c^o d c^^ci cr^ o cr» 



No. 1. A piece of burlap or canvas 

 should be spread over the grass, so that the 

 dirt from the holes may be thrown upon it. 



No. 2. Holes must be made so large that 

 the roots may be spread out naturally with- 

 out cramping. See also No. 6. 



No. 3. Dig holes larger in circumference 

 at the bottom than at the top to prevent 

 water laying about the roots. 



No. 4. Good, fertile top-soil must be 

 used about the roots. If the tree is to be 

 planted in impoverished ground, good soil 

 should be provided for it. 



No. 5. Plant a tree just as deeply as it 

 stood in the nursery row. This depth is very 

 easily determined by the dirt line always 

 shown at the bottom of the trunk. Failure 

 to plant in accordance with this rule probably 

 results in the loss of more trees than any other 

 cause. 



No. 6. Lay the roots out naturally and 

 cut off all the broken or bruised parts. 

 See also No. 2. 



No. 7. Be sure to press earth firmly 

 about the roots, especially about the crown 

 (where the arrow points), so that every par- 

 ticle of the roots will be embedded in com- 

 pacted soil. 



No. 8. A tamping stick may be used to 

 work the soil firmly about the roots. With 

 small trees and plants the dirt will settle 

 firmly if the plant is gently lifted up and 

 down, when the hole is half filled, so that 

 the dirt will work its way between the 

 roots. Just before filling in all the dirt press 

 it firmly. Be sure that the dirt is well com- 

 pacted, excepting three or four inches at the 

 top of the hole, which should be loosened 

 by occasional cultivation. 



No. 9. If buds have begun to swell at 

 time of planting or if the ground is dry, 



watering when the hole has been three- 

 quarters filled will not only moisten the 

 roots but help settle the soil firmly about 

 them. Should drought ensue afterwards, 

 occasional watering will be necessary until 

 the tree becomes established ; watering is, 

 however, frequently overdone and death 

 from this cause occurs to trees and plants 

 almost as frequently as from neglect to 

 water. 



No. 10. Trim broken or bruised 

 branches, also two-thirds of the previous 

 year's growth; because the roots in their 

 disturbed condition cannot at the outset 

 nourish as large a top growth as before they 

 were disturbed by moving. Marks among 

 the branches of the diagram show where 

 this tree should be trimmed. 



No. 11. It is often best not to trim the 

 leader or central stem, as a forked tree may 

 result. Hardwood trees, like the oak and 

 beech especially, should not have their 

 central leader trimmed. 



No. 12. If the tree is large or in an es- 

 pecially exposed place where winds may 

 loosen it, support it with wires and provide 

 some protection where the wires come in 

 contact with the tree trunk. A piece of 

 burlap, with a few sticks, is useful to 

 prevent the wires chafing the tree where 

 they come in contact with it. 



No. 13. After planting, it is better to 

 leave a cultivated area about the tree than 

 to sod close to it. This cultivated area 

 should be from three to five feet in diameter. 



in the form of stable 

 may be used but 



No. 14. Fertilizer 

 manure or compost 

 should not come in direct contact with the 

 roots. A mulch applied after the planting 

 is usually the best way to supply this 

 fertilizer, as it then also acts to conserve 

 the moisture. 



Successful Planting Depends Largely Upon These Four Things: 



A. The right plant in the right place, by using varieties adapted to the location. 



B. By planting at the right time, which we are always willing to name. 



C. Using nursery-grown plants with an abundance of fibrous feeding roots that will sustain 



them. 



1). Taking proper care of the plants until they have been growing long enough to become 

 established in their new location. 



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