II 



Notes on Hardy Garden Rose Culture 



The classification of the various types of garden Roses 

 occasionally confuses the amateur grower, and a word of 

 explanation may prove helpful in the selection of an assort- 

 ment of hardy Roses. 



The more important classes are the Hybrid Tea, Tea, 

 Hybrid Remontant or Perpetual, Dwarf Polyantha, Chmbing 

 Folyantha and Hybrid Wichuraiana Roses. 



The Hybrid Tea class is, without question, the most 

 deskable from which to select garden Roses, their free and 

 continuous blooming tendencies making it easily possible, 

 with a careful selection of varieties, to cut flowers from early 

 June until frost. 



Tea Roses, with a few exceptions, are of a more delicate 

 nature, and while they are also extremely free flowering, they 

 are not seen at their very best until the cool Autumn evenings. 

 They requu-e a little more care in protecting for Winter, but 

 such varieties as the Pink and the AMiite Maman Cochet, 

 Wm. R. Smith and Lady Hillingdon not only flower profusely 

 through the entu-e Summer, but are hardy enough to carry 

 thi-ough the Winter with the 

 same protection afforded Hybrid 



Tea Roses. ^ 



Hybrid Remontant Roses 

 make a magnificent display dur- 

 ing June; certain varieties flower 

 again in a lesser way during 

 Autumn, producing at this time 

 their best flowers on strong 

 stems that are particularly use- 

 ful for cutting purposes. On ac- 

 count of theu' hardiness they are 

 not only desirable for the Rose 

 garden, but for grouping on the 

 lawn or in the slirub border. 



Dwarf or Bedding Polyanthas, 

 popularly called Baby Ramblers, 

 flower freely diu-ing the entire 

 season and are very attractive 

 when massed or used for edging 

 the stronger growing types. 



The Climbing Polyantha and 

 Hybrid Wichuraiana sections in- 

 clude practically all of the de- 

 skable hardy climbing Roses, 

 such as Crimson Rambler, So- 

 denia, Excelsa, Dorothy Per- 

 kins, etc., and are useful for 

 numerous purposes — covering 

 walls, stumps, arches, or for 

 screening unsightly objects. 

 Christine Wright, Tausend- 

 schon, Sodenia or American Pil- 

 lar are exceedingly effective when 

 grown upright on pillars or 

 spurred cedar posts. 



Preparing the Rose Bed 



Roses will give good results in 

 any well-drained, mellow soil, 

 but when planting a new bed it is 

 advisable to prepare it thorough- 

 ly. An open location should be 

 selected, although a little shade 

 during the early afternoon or hot 

 part of the day is appreciated by 

 the Tea and Hybrid Tea Roses. 

 The bed should be excavated 

 to a depth of not less than two 

 feet, and refilled with an equal 

 mixture of turfy loam, turf 

 and well-rotted cow manure in 



equal parts. A sprniklmg of coarse bone meal in addition ia 

 recommended. If the bed is located in a poorly drained 

 situation, an additional foot should be taken out and filled in 

 with rubble or small stone. 



Planting 



Roses can be planted in Fall or Spring if dormant plants 

 are used, but this is attended with some risk, especiall\- in the 

 hands of an inexperienced planter. Dormant jilants, jjar- 

 ticularly the soft, heavj'-wooded, Holland-grown stock, will 

 often go back even with the best of care in planting. Two- 

 year-old budded stock, prepared far in advance by being 

 I)Otted up the previous Fall in roomy pots and carried through 

 the Winter in coldframes, will be equipped with a fibrous 

 active root system in early Spring, and can be planted any 

 time during the season. The ideal planting time, how- 

 ever, is during the month of May, when the plants will be 

 received full of buds and ready to commence blooming. 

 Any risks u.sually attending the planting operations have 

 been ehminated in the earlier 

 preparation of the i)lant.s. 

 When planting, the ball of 

 earth surrounding the roots 

 should be placed about two and 

 one-half inches below the sur- 

 face level of the soil, the soil 

 filled in level with the ball and 

 carefully firmed. \\'ater can now 

 be applied and when thoroughly 

 saturated, the remaining soil 

 filled in, firmed, and leveled. 



Some planters may prefer 

 Roses grown on their own roots 

 to plants budded or grafted on 

 the hardy Manetti or Brier 

 roots. With the exception of the 

 clunbing Roses— and these are 

 seldom budded— the budded or 

 grafted plants are in every way 

 .superior. A few of the stronger- 

 growing Hybrid Remontants do 

 fairly well on their own roots, 

 but these are rare exceptions. 

 Many of the most desirable sorts 

 are positively worth les.s on their 

 own roots, and there arc none of 

 the bedding Roses that will not 

 do equally well, if not better, 

 when budded. The advantages of 

 budded plants are many: They 

 produce more and better flowers 

 the first year, as well as succeed- 

 ing years; are more hardy, longer 

 lived, and less susceptible to 

 disease. If planted as directed, 

 wild suckers will rarely appear 

 from the roots, but these will be 

 readily detected by the many 

 reddish spines, or seven leaves, 

 and should at once be re- 

 moved. 



Summer Culture 



The Rose bed should be cul- 

 tivated often, every week or 

 ten days until Midsummer, and 

 occasionally from then until 

 frost. A light syringing during 

 the latter part of the day is 

 beneficial, and water should be 

 apphed during dry periods. 



Variety Aaron Ward 



In paper pot ready for shipment 



