':romv?0//, QetrnJ^T^ ^ Hardy Perennials 



a matter of personal taste, but the matter of height should be kept in mind. Keep the tail-growing 

 kinds in the rear or background, tapering the planting down to the foreground with the dwarfer 

 kinds, avoiding a stiff, unnatural arrangement by departing from this rule, permitting an occasional 

 plant or group to stand clear of its neighbors. The Peony makes an excellent specimen plant for 

 this purpose. 



Planting can usually be done with a trowel, making the holes large enough to receive the plants 

 comfortably. If dormant, the plants should be set just deep enough to cover the crowns. Pot-grown 

 plants should be set deep enough to co\ er the ball of soil from i to 3 inches, according to their size 

 The soil, when replaced, should be well firmed, forming a slight deoression, or saucer, around each 

 plant to retain sufficient water, which should be applied generously but not too forcibly. In a day or 

 two, the surface should be sufficiently dry to permit raking le\ el, when each plant should get a final 

 firming. 



When to Plant. Spring is the season usually selected for planting operations, and is un- 

 doubtedly the safest time to plant. The one objection to spring planting is that, if it is not completed 

 in the first early days, the plants, having started, are apt either to die or appear sickly and unattrac- 

 tive throughout the season. As it is not always convenient to plant early in the season, we overcome 

 any risk attached to later planting by potting practically all of our perennials (which have grown in 

 the field during the summer) in early fall, wintering them o\ cr in coldframes. We can supply well- 

 established plants, each with a ball of soil, as late in the season as it is practicable to plant. 



What to Plant. The selection of varieties to plant will depend largely on their location. If 

 a single group or bed is desired, it will be better to make the planting individual in character and plant 

 only one kind — Sweet \\ illiam, Canterbury Bells, Hollyhocks, Delphinium, or whatever seems appro- 

 priate. If an old-fashioned mixed border planting is desired, the most satisfactory arrangement would 

 be to group several plants of a kind together, making the groups in proportion to the border. Select 

 varieties that will flower at various seasons, rendering the border attractive and interesting through- 

 out the season. 



The combination of two or more kinds in a group is, in some instances, desirable. Late-flowering 

 Lilies may be planted among Oriental Poppies, the foliage of which disappears during midsummer, 

 while the early-flowering Madonna Lilies can be interspersed among the latc-appcaring Japanese 

 Anemones with splendid results. The successful combination of varieties not only greatly enhances 

 the never-ending beauties of the hardy border, but adds a creative interest and joy to the enthusiastic 

 planter. See special list of plants for shady locations, rock-gardens, etc. 



Care of the Border. During the spring months, the border should be cultivated frequently 

 to dispose of the weeds and provide the best possible growing conditions. As the hot summer months 

 come on, the border should be mulched with an inch or two of stable litter, and the plants watered 

 frequently. The old flower-stems should be cut down from time to time, not only as a matter of 

 appearance, but to induce an additional crop of flowers on those that are disposed to flower again — • 

 the Delphinium, for instance. The taller-growing kinds which flower in late summer and fall should 

 be neatly staked by the time the flower-heads appear, or they will become straggly on opening and 

 the stems are liable to break off at the ground. 



Winter Protection. A covering of salt hay, dry leaves, or any light material, if applied in 

 November after the frost has penetrated an inch or two, will afford ample protection. Heavy cover- 

 ing with green manure should be avoided or smothering will result. 



Extremely hardy border plants of simple cul- 

 ture, excellent for massing or mixed plantings. 

 The flowers when cut are very useful for decora- 

 tion or bouquet work and are highly valued by 

 commercial growers and florists for such purposes. 

 Rapid growing, and should be divided and re- 

 planted at least every third season for the best 

 results. They appear to best advantage in groups 

 of from three to eight plants, and their flowering 

 period covers the greater part of the season. 



Ptarmica, Perry's Variety. New. This novelty will 

 ndoubtedly supersede all other varieties for cutting and 



Achillea • Milfoil l Achillea, continued 



Ptarmica fl.-pl.. The Pearl. Double, pure white; 

 flowering freely all the summer. June to August. 2 ft. 

 20 cts. each, $2 per doz., $12 per 100, except where 

 noted 



Aconitum 



Monkshood, or Wolfbane 

 Hardy border plants, producing erect spikes of 

 helmet-shaped blossoms which are desirable for 

 cutting. Very useful for shady parts of the open 

 border. The roots which are fleshy are more or 

 less poisonous. 



garden decoration. The individual flowers are larger Autumnale. Large spikes of dark blue flowers. 



and more double than "Boule de Neige" or "The Pearl;' 

 the petals are broad and overlapping, and so arranged 

 that the center of the flower does not show at any stage. 

 Very profuse in flowering. 25 cts. each, $2.50 per doz. 



Ptarmica fl.-pl., Boule de Neige. A more compact 

 and desirable form of "The Pearl." June to August. 2 ft. 



One of the most useful varieties. July to Sept. 3 feet. 



Napellus bicolor. Blue and white, large attractive 

 flowers. September and October. 1 >2 feet. 



Lycoctonum. Pale yellow; very free flowering. 

 June and July. 4 feet. 



25 cts. each, $2.50 per doz. 



