^CromiVo//, Q^m'f^-^^ ^ W^x^y Roses 



on the hardy Manctti or Brier roots. With the exception of the Ch'mbing Roses — and these are seldom 

 budded — the budded or grafted plants are in every way superior. They pioduce more and better 

 llowers the first year as well as succeeding years; are more hardy, longer hved, and less susceptible to 

 disease. If planted as directed, wild suckers will rarely appear from the roots, but these will be readily 

 detected by the many reddish spines, or sc\ en leaves, and should at once be removed. 



Summer Culture. The Rose-bed should be culti\ ated often, every w eek or ten days until mid- 

 summer, and occasionally from then until frost. A light syringing during tiie latter part of the day is 

 beneficial, and water should be applied during dry periods. This is best accomplished by drawing the 

 loose surface soil away from the plant, suflicient to form a saucer that will contain a gallon of water. 

 This should be fdled two or three times, or until the water will not be immediately absorbed. Liquid 

 manure can be applied on these occasions until the flowers commence to open. The bed should be 

 cultivated after watering, just as soon as the soil can be worked freely. 



Insects. The most persistent insect pest is the green fly, or aphis. They appear early in the sea- 

 son on the young growth, and as they draw their food from beneath the tender bark, a poisonous 

 spray would be ineffective and a "contact" spray is necessary. One heaping tablespoonful of soft 

 soap dissolved in three gallons of water, to which is added a tablespoonful of Nico-Fume, will prove an 

 infallible remedy. Whale-oil soap is also effective but it is disagreeable to use. 



Caterpillars, worms, or slugs are essentially eating insects and require a poisonous spray. Helle- 

 bore, a heaping tablespoonful to two gallons of water, will be found fairly effective when applied 

 with the syringe or spray pump. Arsenate of lead solutions are also effective, but are undesirable as 

 they discolor the foliage. Picking off the caterpillars in the early morning is the most expeditious. 



Mildew. This fungous disease affects some varieties more than others. It will be recognized by 

 a powdery coat appearing on the leaves, generally after the first crop of flowers has been removed and 

 during unfavorable weather. If permitted to establish, it is rather difficult to overcome. A solution 

 of one ounce of liver of sulphur, two heaping tablespoonfuls of soft soap, dissolved in three gallons of 

 water, is the most effective remedy. It should first be applied when the flower-buds are ready to open 

 and from then on through the season as the mildew appears. Applying sulphur in powdered form is 

 altogether ineffective. 



Winter Protection. All bedding Roses are greatly benefited by a winter covering; even the 

 hardiest will, if slightly covered, have greater vitality and respond with a more vigorous growth and 

 freedom of bloom. The best protecting material is soil. It should be drawn up around the plant to a 

 height of 9 to 12 inches. After this is thoroughly frozen a generous covering of leaves or litter should 

 be applied, the purpose of which is to keep the frost in the ground, not out. It is the alternate freez- 

 ing and thawing that winter-kills. If the wood is frozen back to the point of protection, no harm will 

 be done as the plant should be cut back at least to this extent when pruned. Climbing Roses will 

 stand the usual winter, but when planted in exposed locations it is safer to bend plant down to ground 

 and cover with soil and litter. 



Pruning. Too much stress cannot be laid on the necessity of severe pruning. This is the first 

 essential to success in Rose-culture, and results not only in better flowers but in prolonging life. 



Hybrid Remontants should be pruned as early in spring as the weather permits — not in fall. Thin 

 out all weak shoots and side growth, cut back the remaining wood to from two to eight eyes; in other 

 words, about three-fourths. A few exceptions: Margaret Dickson and Frau Karl Druschki will require 

 lighter pruning, leaving at least one-third of the previous year's growth. 



Hybrid Tea and Tea Roses: Strong-growing varieties require about the same treatment as the 

 Hybrid Perpetuals. Cut weak varieties nearly to the ground and produce excellent flowers in June. 



Dwarf or Bedding Polyanthas merely require thinning out the weaker center growths and prun- 

 ing the tips back lightly. 



Climbing Roses should not be pruned back hard. Cut out entirely any wood that is over two years 

 old. The remaining wood will be all good flowering material and should not be pruned back until 

 after flowering, when the removal of the poorer growths will materially help the new growths that 

 flower the following season. 



Rose-Gardens. If you anticipate planting Roses on an extensive scale or laying out a Rose- 

 garden, we urge you to consult an expert in this branch, one who is familiar with the characteristics 

 and habits of each variety, as there are many details to consider carefully — varieties for certain 

 purposes and latitudes, the correct spacing of each kind, those that are best for garden decoration 

 and for exhibition purposes, etc. 



The Hardy Rose is one of our specialties and we shall be pleased to furnish any information 

 desired on Rose-culture, or submit planting plans, specifications, and estimates and, if desired, carry 

 them to completion. This department is at your service. 



Substitution. Please Read. We will not book an order unless we are reasonably sure that 

 it will be completed at the proper time. However, through circumstances beyond control, a 

 variety may not be in condition to ship at planting time. Should this occur, we will substitute an 

 equally good or better variety in the same color, if we have your permission, but we positively will 

 not substitute unless instructed to do so. 



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