6 



HOW TO PHOTOGRAPH 



eighteen or twenty inches, which is ample 

 for low powers, especially when looking with 

 the eye- piece. The above illustration 

 shows a capital "long focus" camera intro- 

 duced by Hare, which will answer both for 

 landscape and microscopic work, and forms 

 an excellent companion for the summer hol- 

 idays, when the microscope will be, or 

 ought to be, laid aside. Even the expert 

 photo-micrographer will find the occasional 

 practice of landscape photography a very 

 good way of "keeping his hands in." 



A long copying camera, provided with 

 focussing arrangements back and front, 

 makes a very excellent camera for photo- 

 micrography. It is very desirable that the 

 front should not be fixed to the base-board, 

 but be capable of either sliding back or 

 moving back by screw, for frequently it may 

 be necessary, after all is ready for taking a 

 photograph, either to change the posi:ion 

 of the object, or alter the illumination, 

 which can be satisfactorily performed only 

 by looking down the microscope tube. If 

 the camera has to be removed for this pur- 

 pose, there will be some difficulty in getting 

 everything square again ; while if the cam- 

 era front can slide back along the base- 

 board, the relative position of microscope 

 and screen remains unaltered. Copying 



COPYING CAMERA. 



cameras suitable for photo-micrography are 

 to be met with in the lists of most dealers. 



If the student cannot procure one of 

 these cameras, he may very easily construct 

 one for himself. Procure four boards nice- 



ly planed, ^-inch thick, some inches longer 

 than the proposed camera, and ^-inch less 

 in width than the bellows are required. 

 Make a long box with the boards, fastening 

 them together at the ends only with screws. 

 Cover this box with thin black calico or 

 book-binders' cloth, pasting the edges to- 

 gether where they lap over. Next cut some 

 slips of thin cardboard \ inch or f -inch 

 wide, and J-inch shorter than the width of 

 the box. Cut the corners of each slip at an 

 angle more acute than 45=, thus : 



When sufficient have been cut, paste the 

 slips exactly parallel on the four sides of the 

 box, about |-inch or inch apart. Each 

 slip must be pasted on with the cut-off ends 

 facing in the same direction. When the 

 paste is dry, put on an outer cover of bet- 

 ter material; twilled calico will do, but is 

 somewhat thick for the purpose ; good 

 book-binders' cloth is best. The edges 

 should be pasted together as neatly as pos- 

 sible. When the whole is dry, unfasten the 

 end screws, when the boards will collapse, 

 and the bellows can be drawn off. Now 

 proceed to fold it up carefully, by pinching 

 it into shape at the edges of the slips of 

 cardboard, and put the bellows in a copy- 

 ing press, or under heavy weights, for a day 

 or two. The base-board for this bellows 

 should extend in front about 3 feet, so that 

 the microscope and lamp may stand upon it. 

 As the bellows will require no protection^ 

 the camera front may consist of a plain ver- 

 tical board of the right size, constructed to 

 slide back on the base-board about 15 or 

 18 inches. The dark slide should be pur- 

 chased preferably a single one, and the back 

 of the camera made to fit it. The camera 

 may ba opened or closed by hand alone, the 

 back moving in guides screwed along each 

 side of the base-board ; or by endless screws 

 cut with a rather coarse thread. When the 

 endless screw is not ussd, a screv and but- 

 terfly nut must be employed, to clamp the 

 camera in any desired position. 



If the student has not sufficient hand skill 

 to construct a bellows camera Iw may 



