30 



CHILI. 



ridges of hills, and here and there the eye was 

 gladdened by the sight of a slender strip of ver- 

 dure, pointing out the course of some mountain 

 stream. Between the ridges, which rose to the 

 height of several thousand feet, we observed plains, 

 surrounded by the high grounds, suggesting the 

 idea of lakes having once stood there. 



On crossing one of these ranges, we discovered 

 a party of muleteers, who had sought shelter from 

 the heat of the sun, under a grove of lofty trees, 

 on a patch of grass by the side of a rivulet, which 

 dashed from rock to rock, giving a delicious fresh- 

 ness to the air, and verdure to all around it. The 

 mules, to the number of fifty, were arranged in a 

 circle, each tied by the halter to his load, placed 

 on the ground. The muleteers begged us to dis- 

 mount and join their party, giving us, at the same 

 time, some of their cool ulpa to drink, and endea- 

 vouring to dissuade us from proceeding till the sun 

 should be lower ; advice we ought certainly to 

 have followed, for we suffered severely by the heat 

 before reaching Bustamante, where we dined. This 

 being one of the post-houses, the people were pre- 

 pared to receive us, and placed our dinner table in 



