30 



CACAO OE COCOA. 



freqiientlj, laid on the vijahna leaves, and placed in the air to diy. 

 When fully dry, they are put in leathern hags, and sent to mar- 

 ket : this is the Spanish mode of taking in the crop. A somewhat 

 diiferent method is followed in Trinidad and Jamaica (in the latter 

 island it can scarcely be said to be cultivated now) ; but it diifers 

 in no essential degree from the principle of gradual exsiccation, and 

 protection from moisture. 



ClwGoJate, properly so called, and so prized both in the Spanish 

 continent and in the West Indies, ne^'er reaches G-reat Britain ex- 

 cept as a contraband article, being, like nearly all colonial manu- 

 factured articles, prohibited by the Custom-house laws. What is 

 generally drank under that name is simply the cacao boiled in 

 milk, gruel, or even water, and is as much like the Spanish or West 

 India chocolate as vinegar is to Burgundy. It is, without any excep- 

 tion, of all domestic drinks the most alimentary ; and the Spaniards 

 esteem it so necessary to the health and support of the body, that 

 it is considered the severest punishment to withhold it, even from 

 criminals ; nay, to be unable to procure chocolate, is deemed the 

 greatest misfortune in life ! Yet, notwithstanding this estima- 

 tion in which it is held, the quantity made in the neighbourhood 

 of Carthagena is insui£cient for the demands of the population, 

 and is so highly priced that none is exported but as presents ! 

 The manner in which the Spaniards &st manufactured this veri= 

 table Theobroma — this food for gods (from Tiieos, G-od, and hroma, 

 food)— was very simple. They employed the cacao, maize, Indian 

 corn {Zea Mays), and raw cane-juice, and coloured it with arnatto, 

 which they called aehiotti or rocoii, but which v\^as known in Eu- 

 rope at that time by the name of Terra Orellana. These four 

 substances were levigated between two stones, and afterwards, in 

 certain proportions, mixed together in one mass, which mass was 

 subsequently divided into little cakes, and used as required, both 

 in the solid and fluid form. 



The Indians used one pound of the wasted nuts, half a pound 

 of sugar, and half a pound of ground corn (maize) each, and then 

 added rose-water to make it palatable. This the Mexicans called 

 chocolate, from two words in their language, signifying the noise 

 made by the instruments used to mill and prepare it in the water. 

 Many other ingredients were subsequently added ; but with the 

 exception of Vanilla, in the opinions of most persons, they spoil, 

 rather than improve it. Chocolate, as used in ^lexico, is thus pre- 

 pared : — The kernels are roasted in an iron pot pierced with holes ; 

 they are then pounded in a mortar, and afterwards ground between 

 two stones, generally of marble, till it is brought to a paste, to 

 which sugar is added, according to the taste of the manufacturer. 

 From time to time, as the paste assumes consistency, they add 

 long pepper, arnatto, and lastly, vanilla. Some manufacturers 

 vary these ingredients, and substitute cinnamon, cloves, or aniseed, 

 and sometimes musk and ambergris — the two latter on account of 

 their aphrodisiac qualities. The following is the formula given 

 by a late writer : — To six pounds of the nut add thj\^e-and-a-half 



