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the main branches or the stock. We should, never- 

 theless, prefer good dwarfs to the half-standards of 

 Mr. Hay thorn ; we certainly have seen such trees 

 answer admirably, but we must question the compara- 

 tive durability of down-trained branches in the peach. 



Planting, — If the plants are not budded on the 

 stocks where they are to remain, which is the best 

 mode, then select plants that have been budded three 

 or four years, and remove them to their destination 

 so soon as their leaves begin to fall at the end of Oc- 

 tober. Plant them 16 feet apart at the least, with 

 the roots nine inches below the surface, and carefully 

 arranged, so as to cover the greatest space possible. 

 Let the stem be full three inches from the bottom of 

 the wall, and inclining towards it. Nail the branches 

 to the wall, but do not prune them until the end of 

 November, when a patch of white lead should be in- 

 stantly applied to the cut, in order to keep out 

 air and moisture. The neglect of this precaution 

 from the earliest stages of the tree's growth is, wt 

 are assured, the cause of the premature decay of 

 the majority of peaches. This, we are persuaded, 

 is the chief, if not the sole, cause of that discoloration 

 in the wood which is often witnessed, and which is a 

 sure precursor of a general breaking-up of the consti- 

 tution. In nailing the branches of newly-planted 

 trees, let very capacious shreds be used, for the soil, 

 being newly-prepared, will settle considerably, and by 



