THE planter's guide. 



163 



branches will soon be improved, and the tree itself be in a 

 proper condition for taking up after the third or fourth 

 season. 



On the other hand, should the branches be tolerable, 

 at least for a spiral tree, and the roots defective, in con- 

 sequence of tenacity of soil or mechanical injury done by 

 other trees, let the following improved method of cutting 

 round be followed. 



In the first place, supposing the plant to be five-and- 

 twenty feet high, as before, let a trench thirty inches wide 

 be opened round it, at the distance of three feet and a 

 half, if you mean to let it stand for four years, or more, 

 after the operation ; and at the distance of six or seven 

 feet, if you mean to let it stand only two years. For let 

 it be remembered, that no tree can with propriety be 

 taken up, on a single year's growth, after cutting round ; 

 because in that case the fresh shoots of the fibres, being 

 nearly as tender as the roots of an onion or a cabbage, 

 can neither be extricated nor handled without sensible 

 injury. 



Supposing the first case, and that the tree be to stand 

 for four or more years, the operation is simple. Let the 

 trench be cut fully to the depth of the subsoil, rather 

 excavating the bank, in order to get somewhat underneath 

 the roots ; or, in the case of taprooted plants, (as the Oak 

 or Elm,) going down nearly a foot deeper still, and open- 

 ing a drain or outlet on the lower side, to prevent a 

 stagnation of water if the subsoil be tenacious. After 

 this, the earth may be returned, well broken down, into 

 the trench ; taking care to put in the surface-mould first, 

 in order to afford the best pabulum or nourishment to 

 the young fibres, which may be expected at once to strike 

 into it. Previously to the last mentioned operation, it 

 would certainly be an improvement if a little compost 



