THE planter's GUIDE. 



179 



the workmen have completed the task of extrication, 

 within three or four feet of the stem, as already explained, 

 it becomes necessary to take measures for pulling down 

 the tree. According to circumstances, its roots are now 

 either to be covered up, in order to be planted out with 

 others at a future period, or it is immediately to be 

 raised from the pit and removed by itself. On the sup- 

 position that the roots are to be covered up, it is of some 

 importance that that work be done properly and care- 

 fully, so as not to injure the tender fibres. After trying 

 various substances for this purpose, I have found nothing 

 to answer so well as the smaller branches of the Spruce or 

 Silver Fir, which unite closeness with elasticity. For 

 straw, or turf, or moss, {ScoUice fog,) are all apt to inter- 

 mingle with the fibres, and cannot be separated from 

 them without much mischief ensuing. The roots, for 

 obvious reasons, (as their time of lying covered must 

 always be uncertain,) are not now to be put up in bundles 

 or masses, but stretched out at their full length in the pit. 

 The branches and twigs of Spruce or Silver Fir are then 

 laid over them in at least two rows or strata in thickness ; 

 next, eight or nine inches of fine mould follow ; and last 

 of all, sods of common turf are here and there added to 

 increase the pressure. If the subsoil be retentive of 

 moisture, a deep cut is at the same time made at the 

 lower edge of the excavation, in order that the water may 

 not stagnate in any part. 



In this way I have often found the roots of the soft- 

 wooded trees, such as the Lime and the Horse Chestnut, 

 lie safely in the ground for a month or six weeks, or more, 

 when severe frost happened to supervene and stop the work 

 of planting. But as the hard-wooded kinds, especially the 

 Oak and the Beech, are extremely sensitive of cold or 

 drought, it is always desirable to plant them within a week 



